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Thread: Defenders for newbies

  1. #61
    AndyG's Avatar
    AndyG is offline YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoMick View Post
    Back on the OP, I don't bother locking my fuel cap. Why bother? Seriously, who is going to steal your diesel?

    A
    I would be more worried about someone adding something, there are some ****** with a weird sense of humor
    By all means get a Defender. If you get a good one, you'll be happy. If you get a bad one, you'll become a philosopher.
    apologies to Socrates

    Clancy MY15 110 Defender

    Clancy's gone to Queensland Rovering, and we don't know where he are

  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lagerfan View Post
    Hmmm and sounds like a similar story to ours. At least we have a new angle of attack with this email address so thanks.

    On a side note, and warning this might be a stupid question, but if you get a remap say via BAS, which I believe is a whole new ECU, can you then reset the EKA code?
    I have a remap from BAS. At least for the present the tool and software only talks to the engine ECU. (Not the 10AS security module).

    A nanocom evo2 will talk to(most) 10AS security units and can read the EKA for you. I bought one for this purpose because of the lack of success with the dealers (who should also be able to do this with their LR diagnostic software one would think).... However there are some anomalies with security units used in some countries - mine! - that make nanocom evo2 devices utterly useless.

    To their credit BBC seem to want to fix this issue but my nanocom is 18mths old now and never worked. (For me on my vehicle)
    Neil
    (Really shouldn't be a...) Grumpy old fart!
    MY2013 2.2l TDCi Dual Cab Ute
    Nulla tenaci invia est via

  3. #63
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    Some more (hopefully) useful info for first time Defender owners:

    *Fuel cap lock (as previously mentioned) can be positioned so the cap never locks (TD5, 2.4, 2.2 TDCi (Puma)).

    *Engage centre diff lock (high or low range) for any 4WDriving more than gravel roads, regardless if you have traction control or not. If not, excessive shim wear on the centre diff will occur.

    *Traction control and ABS is fitted to 110 and 90 TD5 and newer.
    *Traction control and ABS is NOT fitted to 130 TD5 and newer.
    *110 and 90 (refers to the wheelbase in inches) is typically the wagon, a 130 is the long wheelbase twin cab.

    *2.4lt TDCi (Puma) no fuel pump in tank, system needs to be bled if changing fuel filter (while Im against this: doing your own servicing, fill the new filter with diesel before fitting).

    *2.2lt TDCi (Puma) has a fuel (primer/delivery) pump in tank, when doing fuel filter change, simply turn ignition on for aprox 10 sec, turn off, repeat 3 or 4 times.

    *When changing gears in any Defender TD5 or newer, take your foot off the accelerator first, then clutch in (it actually takes thought to do this until you are used to shifting like this) You will get a smooth shift everytime.

    *Engine Immobilizer can be disabled by anyone with an old school Land Rover diagnostic tool on all TD5 and 2.4lt TDCi (Puma). door lock function still works.

    *2.4lt, 2.2lt TDCi (Puma) ignition key is not a transponder key (its just a big chunky key) the transponder (Plip) is the two button remote.

    *Get the one anti theft locking nut on each wheel removed and replaced with a standard wheel nut. This will save you being on the side of the road one day (in 45 deg heat) with a lock nut adaptor that breaks as you are trying to undo the "special" wheel nut.

    *Add to your tool kit (you own a Defender, you do have a tool kit right???) a 1-1/16 6 point long reach socket (impact socket 100mm - 120mm long) and a 600mm long 1/2 drive good quality breaker bar such as a Kokon (Japanese brand). This will aid undoing stubborn wheel nuts anytime, anywhere. (I do this as a kit, with locking wheel nut replacement)

    *If you fit a spare wheel (duel or single) carrier to the rear, generally the studs and nuts that hold the spare on are NOT Defender size. If you cant order it with Defender stud and nut size find someone that can change it. This then supports the wheel correctly on the carrier, means you dont need another size wheel brace and gives you some spare wheel nuts if u happen to loose any.

    *If a new 2.4lt, 2.2lt TDCi (Puma), in that first 30,000km's get both diffs and transfer case fluids changed. They will be black and loaded with metal. (if you are doing service yourself, buy some rare earth magnets and fit one to each diff drain plug (on the inside off plug)).

    *Fitting the previously mentioned seat base extensions regardless if you are short, tall etc etc, will give your Defender a great driving position and feel.

    Like any vehicle you want to keep for a long time and want it to be trouble free, doing regular maintenance is key. 10,000km service intervals and always change air filter and fuel filter. 50,000km service intervals on all drive train items (diffs, transfer case, gearbox, swivel hubs).

    *One of the biggest resources around for all Land Rovers is this forum, EVERY possible thing can be found if you search for it.

    By then.... you will have the Defender bug and will want to roll into all them other cool mods and accessories.

    Regards
    Daz

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    Awesome list, thanks Dazza.

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    By the way, what is an EKA?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Viclandychick View Post
    By the way, what is an EKA?
    Emergency Key Access

    A description is in the link below, but it may not be specific to your vehicle. You'll get the drift anyway, but it is described in your manual.

    Land Rover Workshop Manuals > TD5 Defender > ELECTRICAL > IMMOBILISATION SYSTEM - FROM 02MY > Page 755

  7. #67
    Mr Magoo Guest
    Great information coming in to this thread. Any chance of making it a sticky? Mods?

  8. #68
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    Fantastic info here. Helpful to owners new and old. Thanks heaps guys.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyG View Post
    I have a 2015 build Defender
    2. You have DSC, disable it in sand
    How is this done?

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by DazzaTD5 View Post
    *When changing gears in any Defender TD5 or newer, take your foot off the accelerator first, then clutch in (it actually takes thought to do this until you are used to shifting like this) You will get a smooth shift everytime.
    Did not know this, but tried it today. Works like a charm. Very counter-intuitive though.
    -Mitch
    'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.

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