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Thanks for the replys. Radiator is new, a PWR one 30% bigger. Thermostat is a new genuine item, never uses coolant, also waterpump is a new genuine one. Last fan failure was a Borg Warner one just over 12months old.
The idea of an electric fan is appealing, the viscous fan when locked only turns at engine rpm so if your stationary will only spin at idle rpm, an electric fan will run full speed no matter what, plus easily controlled.
In what way does it overheat? Blows coolant, LR temp gauge reads high, aftermarket temp gauge reads high etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by nedflanders
aftermarket temp gauge starts rising higher than normal when driving slow/towing the camper trailer. The sensor is on the cylinder head and reads head rather than coolant temp. The factory gauge I don't bother with as it's as useful as tits on a fish! Usually I know theres a problem when the aftermarket gauge starts climbing, if I speed up then temp drops indicating the fan isn't locking, which I can normally hear.
Is the temp sensor bolted to the head near the back on the passenger side?
What sort of temp does it rise to? Does it just keep rising, or does it stabilise?
Sounds like you've had a problem and then fixed it by creating a bigger one.How do you know what the cylinder head temp is supposed to be?,is the factory gauge rising?,is it blowing coolant out of the header tank?.If the cooling system is as good as describe you shouldn't have over heating issue's,I think your chasing ghosts. PatQuote:
Originally Posted by nedflanders
The temp sensor is bolted to the front of the head where the top rad hose is, I'm used to seeing 80-82 deg C on that with coolant temp (reading nanocom) 91-92. Maybe your right Pat, probably chasing ghosts, since ambient temp is starting to rise (and all the work upgrading the coolant system was done in the winter) I just need to get used to a slight rise come spring/summer.
You say your use to seeing 80-82*C head temp and 91-92*C coolant temp, but what are you seeing when it is 'overheating' ?
I've got my head temp sensor near the back of the head, and this reads within 2-3*C of what my Nanocom reading is.
Without towing I'll see temps of upto 94*C, this is in traffic, slow speed driving, highway. This is with ambient temps in the low 40's.
With the camper on the back it will go upto 96*C on long hills, also if dropping from 100kph limit down to 60kph it will rise upto 96*C But then drop off again. I put this down to reduced airflow through the engine bay and heat soak from the turbo.
My cooling system is standard, original 2003 radiator, but all hoses, thermostat, coolant cap and viscous fan replaced in the last 12 months.
As Pat says I think you're looking for a problem that doesn't exist, hence my previous questions ;)
90-92 is perfect Tdi,Td5,TDCi operating temp. Pat
To add,I'm in two minds about extra sensors on vehicles,too many times people fit them and then watch them like hawks worrying about stuff they shouldn't be,the temp gauge is a good example.Temperature gauges on all vehicles are desensitized,they have to be or they would never stay still,dealerships would be over run with people complaining about the gauge going up towards the red driving up hill and then going down towards the blue cruising down the other side,keep the cooling system in good condition and use common sense while driving and all will be good. Pat
Used to do breakdown in the UK and saw many a overheat and always the customer would tell me the factory temp gauge never moved or went anywhere near the red which is why I monitor head temp. Never seen coolant temp on the nanocom past 96 so isnt overheating but was running that hot when it shouldnt have been, that temp is when the viscous normally locked up, which was why I asked if an electric fan was better for control, I know they dont shift the same volume of air but I could run it longer with a bigger radiator.