I did before posting was looking for a more independent analysis.
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I did before posting was looking for a more independent analysis.
Pure glycol waterless coolants arent as thermally conductive as water. So while it has a higher boiling point, it cant remove heat at the same rate as pure water or a glycol/water blend. Your tdci will just end up running hotter with its marginal cooling system.
The pressure in the cooling system does more to prevent boiling than glycol does.
If anything, a more diluted coolant (i.e. more water than glycol) will help the cooling system with shedding more heat if you're in a hot climate.
Also, your Puma already has an oil cooler. Its a water cooled heat exchanger, connected to the engine cooling system. So your oil temp. is dependant on coolant temp.
Cheers
Tom
Sent from my ZTE T84 using AULRO mobile app
Re Waterless coolent, all pros, no cons:
No corrosion
No boiling (ever)
Better for thermastat and water pump
-20 C before it freezes.
Change after 20 years!
As I will be towing, as well as I live in FNQ, any thing I can do to keep the engine cooler, the better.
Just got a response from Evans.
This is a typically response we get from many people researching our product.
Firstly Evans is not pure glycol and is a formulation specifically allowing the coolant to remain waterless.
Water is a great thermal conductor and when in it liquid form it is a better thermal conductor than any other liquid. However, water turns to vapour in your cooling jackets and this inhibits heat transfer.
Many people consider their temperature gauge as an accurate reading of engine temperature, this is not true, it is purely coolant temperature as it passes the sender. Your temperature gauge simply let you know that coolant temps are below its boiling point.
Metal surface temperatures are much higher, Evans will provide better heat transfer at the metal surface because efficient nucleate boiling will occur, Evans will remaining in its liquid form. Liquid to metal contact is critical in these locations and can only be achieved by eliminating water (water vapour) and by having a high boiling point. Departure From Nucleate Boiling (DNB) is avoided and Evans will not change phase.
Metal surface temperatures in certain areas are well above the boiling point of 50/50 coolant or water at pressure. This is why localised boiling occurs.
With regards to coolant running warmer using Evans ..... this is true. Very simply Evans will not dissipate heat through the radiator as well as water......but it doesn't have to. With water in your cooling system, heat dissipation is critical, this is because coolant-in temperatures (into your radiator) are already very close to the boiling point of water, and if the heat is not dissipated and goes back into the engine 5 or 7 degrees too hot, you're in trouble. With Evans, a 5 ? 7 degree increase in coolant temperature is nowhere near the coolants critical heat flux, meaning Evans can still effectively cool metal surfaces at the higher temperature and still be well within the engines parameters and will not affect oil integrity.
The below response states ?if anything more water is better? ..... more water equals lower boiling point, more vapour, more corrosion, less heat transfer.
David, the biggest mistake people make is comparing our product to how water behaves. Evans will behave differently to water..... because it's not water.
There are many misconceptions regarding our product and the below email is a classic example.
If you have any further questions, I am always happy to answer.
In the meantime I suggest reading up on ?nucleate boiling? and 'departure from nucleate boiling? to understand what is happening in your cooling jackets ....... that the gauge won't tell you. We have not made these issues up.
Thanks
John Mallia
If you sent a similar email to the makers of HiClone or Polarisers you'd get a similar response.... [emoji41]
Hope it never leaks :) that stuff goes up in flames really well when it hits the exhaust...
The truth of the matter would come from a CHT sensor reading.
There are any number of performance air filters out there, but I believe the oem filter offers the best filtration?
There is a detailed thread somewhere