OldBushie
Hi Dave and thanks for all that info, and while I agree with most of it, the difference between what you get in the way of available accessories battery capacity is quite a large amount more than you covered.
The advantages of using my systems is as you have posted, my systems are far gentler on the batteries, for the same amount of energy used, because my systems spread the load over at least two batteries.
But it doesn't end there.
Because my systems allow up to 50% of the cranking battery's capacity to be used to run your accessories, if you use the same amount of capacity as you would do with either a DC/DC unit or with Standard type Voltage Sensing Relay ( VSR ) Isolator, you will draw 50% less off both batteries and this has a number of very useful benefits.
Lets say you have a 100Ah auxiliary battery being recharged via a DC/DC device or Standard VSR.
You have a total usable capacity of 80Ah, which means your auxiliary battery will be discharged down to 20% ( the safe level for all types of modern deep cycle batteries ).
If you were to use the same amount of battery capacity with one of my systems, and say the cranking battery also has a 100Ah capacity, then the two batteries will only be discharged down to 60%.
Because all alternators in late model vehicles can easily charge two or more batteries at the same time, this means that when you do start your drive, you will need 1/3 less driving time to fully charge the two.
Plus each battery will not be charged with as high a current, which again, is kinder on the battery.
And if you need more capacity, you have the added bounce of having 130Ah available verses just 80Ah with the DC/DC or Standard VSR setup. And the additional battery capacity available at no extra cost and no extra weight or space lost.
Next, and Dave, this is one I disagree with you on. You can use dissimilar batteries in a parallel DBS setup and you will not have any problems that are different to problems you can have when using identical batteries.
Furthermore, my system can actually take advantage of different battery types and put that to use.
If you have a rapid charge battery like an Optima as your auxiliary battery, every time you turn off your motor, because the auxiliary battery is always going to be in a higher state of charge than the cranking battery, and because of the unique way my isolators work, the higher charged auxiliary battery is able to back discharge into the cranking battery.
This feature, over a short period of time after one of my systems is fitted to a vehicle, actually increases state of charge of the cranking battery. And this in itself has lots of benefits, like a healthier cranking battery, which makes it easier to start your motor and helps to increase the cranking battery's life span.
Babs, this is just the basics but as you can see, there is no other DBS that can match the benefits my systems offer. And this is not unsubstantiated sales hype, it's based on more than 25 years that my isolators have been in use.
Fossicker
SupporterBattery wise, I have been looking at replacing my second battery and after talking to someone at batteryworld I am considering getting a Century Marine pro 100ah.
Basically he suggested that as my battery box vents to outside that an AGM is unnecessary, it will charge faster but at double the cost.
And they are a bargain at the moment, $183 at BCF.
1998 Defender 4bd1T
OldBushie
Hi Jimmy, and I wouldn't be taking too much notice of someone who tells you that sort of dangerous crap.Originally Posted by Jimmy93
AGMs vent gas and should only be fitted in a well vented are, just like wet cell batteries.
When a battery is being charged by an alternator, no matter what type is is, it is highly unlikely to gas.
The most common situation where batteries can be caused to gas, is when charging with a battery charger, or DC/DC device.
With this type of charging, many brands of AGMs batteries can actually start to gas at a lower voltage then wet cell batteries.
As for the type of battery you can fit in your battery box, well your expert should have already known the cranking battery is a wet cell anyway.
Fossicker
I'm looking into dual battery-ing the truck (pretty keen on a Traxide unit now), and looking at the cranking battery it has a piece of small diameter tube that vents under the truck directly from the interior of the battery (vent port shown here)
Does anyone know if any suitable aftermarket deep cycle batteries have a similar vent port?
OldBushie
Hi Keith, you may not need the vent tube, it depends on the mounting location of the battery.
Where are you planning on mounting your second battery?
I have found this the best. Something simple and not much to worry about.
You are going to get voltage drop no matter how thick a cable you run. The longer the run, the more voltage drop. DC/DC chargers are good for were the auxiliary battery is some distance from the main battery. You really need them if your battery is in a camper or caravan. Of some benefit if the battery is in the rear of the car. Of little or no benefit if the battery is under the bonnet.
In 99.99% of cases a AGM will never expel any gases. They have a safety valve that will allow gas to escape only in the cases where the battery is about to explode. This would only be in the case of some major fault with the battery, which is a very rare occurrence.
Vehicle manufacturers only put in alternators that just cover the peak voltage load of the cars electrical system. The larger the alternator the more expensive it is and the more power required to drive it. The amount of amps available to charge the battery will depend on how much other power is being used at the time. If you are driving at night time with the headlights on high beam, the air-con going, and listening to your favourite tunes flat out, there is probably little power left to charge the battery. If on a nice day with the windows down and taking in the quiet serenity, there is probably quite a lot of power to spare to charge the battery.
Master
The optima (deep cycle) I have doesn't , and the varta (cranking and accessories) which is same as original on a 2.4 tdci but with higher Cca and ah rating doesn't either.
Fossicker
I was hoping to fit the aux battery in under the passenger seatbox next to the cranking battery if I can find the right option
OldBushie
Hi again Keith and any battery will be fine there.
If you were going to mount the battery in the cab, then it's best to mount it in a plastic battery box.
An AGM does not need one and is fine to mount there. It is only the flooded lead acid batteries, like your standard starting battery, that need the vents.I'm looking into dual battery-ing the truck (pretty keen on a Traxide unit now), and looking at the cranking battery it has a piece of small diameter tube that vents under the truck directly from the interior of the battery (vent port shown here)
Does anyone know if any suitable aftermarket deep cycle batteries have a similar vent port?
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