If you pull the axles and tailshaft, you could drive it to Townsville in FWD with the CDL locked, will save you on labour when they take it out too... haha
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As others have already suggested, stick with the Sals diff, it is a Danna 60 anyway, Land Rover just skimped on the axles.
I dont rebuild too many Salisbury diffs but do plenty of the later P38 diff as used in late model TD5 and TDCi (puma) models.
Although I have had in a few early Defender models that have had the whole lot changed out to the later P38.... unless the complete assembly was really cheap, I see this as a pointless exercise.
Regards
Daz
Have you actually phoned around? Its a dumb as dog**** diff - nothing special so I'd be really surprised if no-one was capable. Willing is a different matter :p
What about these guys (straight off Google): Differential Services | Cairns | Hunter Automotive | Hunter Automotive
If there's really no-one that will do it and you need to drive it to Townsville I agree with MR LR's suggestion. Don't faff around with the pinion bearing, just pull the prop shaft and axles and drive it down with CDL engaged.
I'd suggest dropping the oil and rear cover to have a look at the crownwheeel and pinion beforehand though so you can line up the parts if necessary. No need to refill it with oil if axles/prop aren't connected.
Detroit is a super-easy install and involves about 5mins extra work with the die grinder to trim the edges of the crosspin holes if the diff is already apart - so don't let anyone screw you on labour to install it.
Steve
My sals has now clocked over 600k no pinion or carrier bearings required yet☺ they are an easy diff to rebuild and the detroit fitment is 50 mins drive in drive out....
The p38 diff option is NOT an option in my opinion...
Jc
Arb $1900 drive in drive out with a warranty
Diff lock fitted
Rather than go into all the details of rebuilding a diff, I'll answer your question, but really there is a lot more involved than just the free play between the crown wheel and pinion...
Looking at back of diff, cover off, grab the crown wheel with your left hand like you would sort of hold a steering wheel, move crown wheel up and down, that free play I'd guess is about 2mm, but I say that as a guess because I've not ever measured it, I do it by feel.
But....
How is the Crown wheel & Pinion meshing, depth etc?
Rather than me giving a long winded book explanation here is a very good tutorial on how its all done
Differential Installation Instructions | West Coast Differentials
Here is a pic of a P38 diff out of a Defender TDCi that is just about perfect, you can see the contact point is centre both in height and in the heel (outer crown wheel) and toe (centre crown wheel) on the drive side (the sharp pitch side of the teeth. I generally get the slightest toe so as the diff loads up it ends perfect centre. Ideally this is what you are looking for, but dont be overly concerned about getting slight toe. While there are other contact patterns that are considered acceptable, always work towards centre centre.
Getting the contact pattern centre means there is always 3 teeth meshing, one tooth coming on, one tooth full load, one tooth coming off. If meshing is badly off you reduce this. If setting up say a drag car or anything that will dump a huge load onto the diff, you then set up with big toe so again when full load dumps onto the diff it meshes perfect centre.
http://www.aztech4x4.com.au/images/IMG_2319.jpg
Regards
Daz