I think I read that if you want to, you can just fill up with water at any time - it won't have any weird reaction. It'll just stop doing whatever it's doing and you'll be back to water or part-water cooling.Quote:
Originally Posted by loanrangie
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I think I read that if you want to, you can just fill up with water at any time - it won't have any weird reaction. It'll just stop doing whatever it's doing and you'll be back to water or part-water cooling.Quote:
Originally Posted by loanrangie
ok, so if it's so good, rather than just spamming forth the biased research of the product provider...Quote:
Originally Posted by Witchdoctor
how about you show us industries in which it is used extensively and what their reasoning is..
and how about a little truth in the advertising. Evans Waterless coolant is not the only waterless coolant out there. I can name 2 others off the top of my head without having to resort to a brand name 3 substitutes that will do the same as your evans waterless coolant and at least a couple that offer all the same key benefits as your evens waterless and are compatible with water..
I can even name a system that allows for progressive recovery from water only contamination as a top up measure in an emergency. It appears that evens cant do that so if you need it theres actually a product out there that does all that evans stuff offers you as well as being able to recover from having water added to it.
oh, just a by the by...
care to stick the chemical formula for evans coolant out there cause Im willing to bet its got O molecules in it and even if it doesnt that it will also hold any other number of other gasses from atmospheric conditions.
I also should ask on behalf of others,
- can you provide the long term effects of the evans waterless cooling system on the various materials within the engine in particular the seals for oil coolers differing gasketing compounds and the various types of rubber and nylon/vinyl in hoses and Orings?
- how does it handle exposure to combustion gasses or fuels from the early stages of head gasket failure, slipped liners, injector seal failure.
- what happens if it gets oil into it or worse it gets into the engine oil?
- do you have the MSDS for the product and is it legally importable to australia?
- whats the effect of it burning?
Just for a bit of tongue in cheek
soluable oil coolants have been around since before 1948 as have a couple of other cooling system solutions. which offer all of the same benefits as Evans Waterless coolants. Infact I believe that the very original ICE engines used one of them.
Kettle, Pot. Black. Out.
As I understand it the waterless coolant operates without the normal pressure that builds up using glycol/water coolant. Is this correct?
If so, using the waterless coolant should practically eliminate burst hoses and coolant leaking under pressure.
Before using this product I would assume that it is necessary to completely clean and flush the cooling system to remove any possible contaminants......is there a recommended procedure or product to do this with?
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyG
Many of us are attempting to retrograde back to more traditional lubricants because while the newer oils do things that are fantastic for modern materials and standards the protection that the original systems require from the original oil standards are no longer present in the newer replacements.
as 4 very generic examples... the newest brake fluids are not fully backwards compatible to the original seals and flex lines they will work but you rapidly get into leaks and hose buldging/delamination
GL4 + lubricants on old school syncros (which personally I dont care about because I dont do synco shifting)
the new low sulphur diesels and what it has the potential to do to old school injection systems
ethanol fuels and older fuel systems....
Yes. I however feel that the burden of that proof lies with the advertiser, if its so good they should be able to name the places that its used off the cuff along with the justifications as to why and what else is in place along side with it.
Pressure will still build up as the Evans product, as stated, has a similiar co-efficient of thermal expansion to water.Quote:
Originally Posted by ramblingboy42
Aaron
does the OP work for the company?
yeah ok, so hoses will still go soft and collapse and split and leak your $100+ coolant everywhere........
no, it still builds up pressure. I dont have the evens pressure temp chart. one of the systems I've put in at client request has the potential to run a higher pressure under some circumstances.Quote:
Originally Posted by ramblingboy42
not true, most of the same cooling system issues that cause this to occur still exist.
yes, there is and there are... as a Guide only very roughly here is what I do prior to swapping vehicles over to one of the various types of non water based coolants. Its worst case a system in great condtion would only get about half the list.
1. drain and water flush the whole system
2. use a chemical flush that is compatible with the old coolant
3. more drain and flush with water
4. use a mild acid/detergent based flush and let it sit for 24 hours
5. use a compatible abrasive additive
6. neutralizing flush and drain
7. water flush (IF the product has its own proprietary flushing agents I use that here)
8. demineralised water flush
9. warm dried air venting discharging over a desiccant bag( it will change colour to wet then start to change back to dry, when its changing back to dry the cooling system is now dry) This step can be skipped if the waterless coolant can be put in "wet" or over the proprietary flushing agent)
10 replace the pump, thermostat, cooling system hoses and seals.
install the new coolant.
In that video of Jay Leno's Garage, the Evans guy says:Quote:
Originally Posted by ramblingboy42
- There is hardly any pressure buildup. He says compared to taking the top off a normally filled radiator after a long drive and needing to be very careful to avoid getting hit by scalding liquid, taking the top off a waterless-filled radiator there's a small pop like opening a soda or bottle, and no risk of erupting fluids.
- He also says in the video that you do need to flush your system of water, with the safe percentage left in your system of 3%. Anything above that and the usual corrosion could still occur. I saw that Evans sells a hygrophobic flush on their site, that you can use to remove water from your system before putting in the coolant.
- They also say it is 'life of the vehicle', as in never replacing your coolant. Leno says one of his cars has had the same waterless in it for 16 years and counting, with no corrosion.
Again, I don't know if this is true - just relating what I saw.
No biggie, you can do this on almost any landrover thats as well maintained and well driven as any of Lenos cars.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Rey
Agreed, and if its the same episode as I remember, the coolant in question isn't Evans.
The flush wouldnt want to be hydrophobic, it would just trap the water, you'd want a hydroscopic flush that readily absorbs water.
for a visual aid that you can try yourself if you do so in a safe controlled manner.
put a couple of teaspons of water in the bottom of a metal tin, put a couple of teaspons of petrol in over the top and light it off or let it evaporate. The water will remain (unless the tin gets hot enough to boil off the water).
do it again but add a teaspons of methylated spirits.
petrol is hydrophobic (mostly)
mehylated spirits is hrydroscopic
you can do the exeperiment in a wide mouthed tumbler.
if you want to see the effect of the water in evans (I've been doing some online searchery pokery) do the same experiment using dot 3 or mineral dot 4 brake fluid. The mixing properties at opening glance appear to be similar (although the actual function of and composition of the 2 fluids are different brake fluid is the first thing that comes to mind that has the same sort of reaction properties to small quantities of water that you would have easy access to for the purpose of this experiment)