Thread: Puma CDL Disengaging

Originally Posted by davisshannon

Getting into low range was a bit tough, having to engage 2nd, go back to neutral, and then it would slide into low. Is this normal?

[SNIP]

Yep - when I got the vehicle (new) I found getting into low range was a bit tough - and the technique of slightly engaging 2nd and holding the pressure as you go back to neutral helps it slide into low.

I have found the more I use low range the easier it is - I have now had a number of trips using low range and it goes in much easier.

I have had issues with the CDL not disengaging - but that seems to have improved the more I use it.

When you move the shifter for either the range selector or the diff lock, you are only moving the selector fork, which is spring loaded (inside the transfer case) once the vehicle has some forward movement, the teeth align and the engagement happens. by design it cant "engage" instantly.

Its not a bad design, its simply an old design, the only thing that has essentially changed on the Defender TDCi is the pretty ford style gear shifter/knob.

The diff lock linkage is a long vertical flat bar with the pivot point fairly high so the in cab shifter moves a small amount but throws the shift linkage on top of the diff lock housing quite far, unfortunately it doesnt give the shifter a positive feel, hence why people are having issues.

The same transfer case that was used in the Discovery 2 didnt suffer these "shift issues" as it used two cables which gave the shift a very positive feel.

But as I've already mentioned, if owners continue to hold the shifter in position for say a couple of metres while moving forward it will engage correctly.

Regards
Daz

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

The diff lock linkage is a long vertical flat bar with the pivot point fairly high so the in cab shifter moves a small amount but throws the shift linkage on top of the diff lock housing quite far, unfortunately it doesnt give the shifter a positive feel, hence why people are having issues.

[...]
But as I've already mentioned, if owners continue to hold the shifter in position for say a couple of metres while moving forward it will engage correctly.

Regards
Daz

Doesn't always work that way, Daz. I understood the vague feel and spring loaded selector etc... Many were the times I have held the shift lever to the lock position, saw the lock light illuminate, and held it there several metres, straight, over logs, turns left and right up hill and down dale.... Then release the lever. Between 30seconds and 5min later I'd notice the light off - usually after getting stuck in an easy obstacle because it had unlocked.

Drove me nuts.

After complaint and "adjustment" by LRM it's much better.

Some more info...

The last few transfer cases out of Defender TDCi models I've been playing around with the detent on the CDL (centre diff lock) to get a more positive engagement, that hopefully doesnt allow the shift to disengage the CDL.

The obvious thought is to simply stretch the detent spring, but it was a method I didnt wanted to do, as there really is no way of controlling the stretch. So I've been putting a small spring washer (not for the spring action but more for the thickness, about 2 - 3mm, to max of 4mm) under the detent retaining screw.

Unlike earlier models, the detent ball, spring and bolt on a Defender TDCi model is very easy to get at. Simply get under the Defender look at the front nose of the transfer case where the front prop shaft flange is and then look towards the centre of the vehicle slightly and the allen key retaining bolt will be visible on the nose cone. It is basically above the exhaust (yes the exhaust will make is slightly harder to get at, but not by much.

Remove the allen key bolt, take care as there is a small (detent) spring behind it and a (detent) metal ball, dont loose either, both the spring and ball may well stay in place. Removing the spring will give you an idea of the very small washer/spacer that is required, as it needs to fit loosely in the threaded hole.

To note:
*So in order of install into hole is: detent ball, detent spring, your washer/spacer, retaining bolt.
*Ensure the diameter of the washer/spacer is small enough that it wont get stuck in the hole.
*Dont go any thicker than a MAX 4MM, or the selector shaft wont slide.
*Using a washer (that has a hole in it) allows for easy removal if needed.


See the pictures and it will become more obvious
*First pic is the retaining allen key bolt.
*Second pic is the detent spring (left) and washer/spacer (right)

The alternative to this option is stiffen up the shifter assembly, but I havent looked at this yet.

Regards
Daz

Whilst driving my 130 recently I had the diff lock disengage itself, and after much thought as to why it had done this as it hasn't done it often, I realised I had put the diff lock in whilst under load and therefore the gear hadn't engaged correctly. I now decelerate after engaging the diff lock and have had no further problems.


Ian
Bittern

Got the Defender back from Lance Dixon. They did their custom transfer lever modification under warranty and the CDL engagement is completely fixed now. Engaging diff lock has a very positive feel and it doesn't want to pop out any longer. If anyone else is having the same issue I highly recommend going in to see the Lance Dixon service people about it.

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

Some more info...

The last few transfer cases out of Defender TDCi models I've been playing around with the detent on the CDL (centre diff lock) to get a more positive engagement, that hopefully doesnt allow the shift to disengage the CDL.

The obvious thought is to simply stretch the detent spring, but it was a method I didnt wanted to do, as there really is no way of controlling the stretch. So I've been putting a small spring washer (not for the spring action but more for the thickness, about 2 - 3mm, to max of 4mm) under the detent retaining screw.

Unlike earlier models, the detent ball, spring and bolt on a Defender TDCi model is very easy to get at. Simply get under the Defender look at the front nose of the transfer case where the front prop shaft flange is and then look towards the centre of the vehicle slightly and the allen key retaining bolt will be visible on the nose cone. It is basically above the exhaust (yes the exhaust will make is slightly harder to get at, but not by much.

Remove the allen key bolt, take care as there is a small (detent) spring behind it and a (detent) metal ball, dont loose either, both the spring and ball may well stay in place. Removing the spring will give you an idea of the very small washer/spacer that is required, as it needs to fit loosely in the threaded hole.

To note:
*So in order of install into hole is: detent ball, detent spring, your washer/spacer, retaining bolt.
*Ensure the diameter of the washer/spacer is small enough that it wont get stuck in the hole.
*Dont go any thicker than a MAX 4MM, or the selector shaft wont slide.
*Using a washer (that has a hole in it) allows for easy removal if needed.


See the pictures and it will become more obvious
*First pic is the retaining allen key bolt.
*Second pic is the detent spring (left) and washer/spacer (right)

The alternative to this option is stiffen up the shifter assembly, but I havent looked at this yet.

Regards
Daz

so I’ve been having issues with my front and rear air lockers not working properly when put under strain. It’s like as if when things get tough they won’t work. Everything on the lockers side of things has been tested and works flawlessly. So I did a massive rock wall climb and as I’m doing this the rear locker stops working. In fact I had no drive at all to the rear. After I finally got up I noticed my CDL was not engaged. And after noticing that I think my issues with front and rear lockers is that the CDL disengages itself somehow and I think this spring may be the cause. Daz, have you had success with the washer mod?

On my last service I finally had this issue resolved. I had a new housing assembly installed under warranty. This is a known fault and there is now a service action SSM72873 out on it.

That’s all the detail I have but it may be worth pursuing. My Christmas trip was the first time in 2 years of ownership that the difflock has actually stayed locked in.

Cheers,
Jon