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I purchased from, and had it fitted by MR Automotive Land Rover specialists in Brisbane.
Wouldn't be without it. There is a little LED globe installed by the right circular vent that changes colour to let you know what mode you are in.
I'm sure any of the LR specialists in Melbourne can do it for you.
Ken
Wouldn't the existing mudguard top vents on both sides of a Puma vent enough hot air to make a bonnet scoop unnecessary?
How is that going to result in more airflow through the radiator?Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie
Why are we worried with engine bay heat when theres other things that provide better value for your dollar.Quote:
Originally Posted by Beery
Snorkel, intercooler, exhaust are all priorities if you want to reduce egts and heat. People on this site say the standard exhaust is adequate however my opinion is that it is very restrictive not conducive to good exhaust flow hence making the engine bay hotter. If anyone says otherwise id love them to tell what egts there getting and how they compare to mine. Mines tuned which means more fuel which in theroy means more heat but it runs smooth as and what i would consider to be excellent egts for a tuned vehicle. According to some people whos opinion i actually respect on this site my coolant temps are on the money.......and we are worried about engine bay heat in a 2.2/2.4 litre defender? Unless some of you are running aftermarket turbos, 500 plus nm and 200 plus hp i dont think engine heat will be an issue, but id love someone to point me in the right direction if i am wrong, I'm keen on a explation as to why my thinking may be incorrect.
What they're chasing is air flow under the vehicle to keep the floor area cooler [emoji6]
Nothing to do with engine cooling..
Engine bay heat matters because it fatigues ever single thing under the bonnet...things that aren't water cooled. Think along the lines of steering pump, A/C compressor, high pressure fuel pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1nando
It also heats the firewall and cab floor like Tombie said, putting extra load on the A/C when being used, perpetuating the problem.
Radiator/IC/condenser airflow matters (improved partly by helping air get out of the engine bay); because it helps your aircon run lower pressures/temperatures; because it lowers combustion temperatures; because it lowers coolant temp leaving the radiator.
Coolant temp matters because (aside from the obvious) it controls the oil temp, and the fuel temp. The lower the better on those two, within reason.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/02/438.jpg
Todays readings. Bumper to bumper traffic in the worst heat I've ever experienced in the landy with the air con blairing and coolant temp remained very stable at 89-91.
Driving around today egts remained below 300 (highest speed today around 80kmph) and coolant temp pretty much the same as in bumper to bumper traffic.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dazzler
Folks,
Similar reading again today temp in mid forties
Max temp at stationary at the lights 89
Driving @ 60 odd km 87~88
Extended run I got 86 momentarily
AC on Full and the condenser fan going a mil miles an hour ;)
I forgot to add:
I lost a lot off coolant mucking around with the BAS Elbow and BAS IC install, since I did not readily have coolant handy I filled with tap water to get by for a few days. The ratio then was probably 80~90 water and rest red coolant. This seem to help with the temp in line with a lot of suggestions here.
Following week, I bought concentrated coolant(Green) from LR to completely flush the system and this is what I have now.
I have also made the following changes around the same time:
- New grill and Removed a pair of HID lights.
- MOS2 in LIQUI MOLY TOP TEC 4500 5W-30
I also have:4x4 Outdoor Tuning :: Spacer for Fan for Defender TD4 2.4 and 2.2
Sharing as much as I remember if that helps
Cheers
Update;
This experiment is concluded.
- My 2.2 runs LOW egts. Get the correct mods and you can rest assured that your vehicle will be well within a safe working range.
-the duratorq is an excellent engine. Torquey and strong. Happy to lug all day and great on economy
- the Alive tune and cooler are ONE OF THE BEST THING'S I'VE EVER DONE in terms of mods.
- the standard exhaust is restrictive
- now that the weather has cooled down I cant get anywhere near 600 degrees.
I love my puma, I love the way it drives exactly like our 3 ton Hino trucks and pulls exactly like they do. It won't ever win any races....... but it doesn't matter what I put in it, how many people are in it or how much weight I ask it to pull out when recovering our bogged trucks but it just does it and never complains. Very happy with my setup and hopefully some of you find this thread helpful/useful.
Cheers
Nando
Hi Nando,
I have a Puma 130 2.4 since Oct 2020
Engine was blowing coolant out the cap when I bought it, so I got it replaced with a brand new crate motor under extended warranty. Including, alternator, starter motor, water pump, injectors, scv and hoses.
I blanked off the EGR cooler at both exhaust side and EGR valve side so the EGR cooler is totally blocked and bypassed.
I also have BAS 165bhp remap with EGR delete, speed limiter removed, BAS upgraded intercooler, Nugget stuff airbox & larger intake & Safari snorkel.
I have heat wrapped a brand new manifold, and terrafirma decat downpipe with exhaust wrap.
I am still running the factory turbo that came off the old engine which has 180,000kms on it.
I have also fitted a 78 degree thermostat from bearmach.
I am running a Madman EMS3. With dedicated EGT (in exhaust manifold), RPM, Engine timer, Coolant Temp, Coolant Level and Oil pressure sensors not relying on the ECU. All these sensors have audible and visual alarms set on them, so I'll know if I hit any values I don't like and hopefully prevent any damage.
Engine has only 7 hours on it so far and I have not been able to get EGT temps to 500 degrees Celsius no matter how hard I push it.
It's early days but I am hoping all the mods payoff in the EGT temp results.
I am trying to gain confidence in the puma and Ford duratorq motor. Time will tell.
Thanks,
Damo
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