Identify my installed air con (1998 300TDI 110)

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Originally Posted by Mules

G'day TripleE,

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Originally Posted by Mules

An aussie 300tdi in the US is surely somewhat of a rare beast!

The lower dial is your temp control and should spin from about 12 - 8 (off the top of my head). The top dial is your switch for the fan settings (3 different levels). A gentle clockwise turn with pliers should be safe.

Need to get mine regassed actually. Don't expect wonders from it though, just makes the engine feel even more asthmatic.

Cheers, Mules

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Originally Posted by Mules

Correction,

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Originally Posted by Mules

Bottom dial should spin clockwise from about 9'o clock to 7 o'clock,

Top dial from about 9 - 12 (if you have one of course)

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Thanks, mate! ;) I was able to grip with my fingers and turn the shaft. Fan blows! I can feel the 4 positions (0,1,2,3).

Bottom (temp) dial spins about the same degree as yours (270), so I suspect I just need to remove the dial and index it correctly to match 9 to 7.

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Originally Posted by Don 130

If you measure the diameter of the shank and whatever landing is on it, then search radio parts stores or Ebay, you might find one that fits. I don't think there are any spare parts for those switches available here.

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Originally Posted by Don 130

With a trim, something like this might do the job. you should be able to find something over there.
Don.

Edit: This one might be better

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Excellent advice, should be able to find something! Thanks. If you ever do come across one... ;)

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Originally Posted by Michael2

Inspired by this thread, I went back to my AC fan speed issue.

I wondered if running the fan at 16V might be better for moving more air, and whether that would lead to premature failure.

I spoke to an auto elec friend, who told me how to measure voltage drop.
Put the multimeter in Volts setting, then place one end on the +ve wire of the (in this case) fan and the other end on the +ve battery terminal. It should read 0 if there's no voltage drop. You can do the same with the negative wire and the negative terminal to measure drop on the negative side. Voltage drop may be caused by long wiring or poor connections.

My fan was running at 8volts with the battery at 12.6V !!!!!

There was a 1V drop across the plug for the fan alone. The -ve side had no drop.

I did some by-pass surgery and ran 6mm wire from the fan side of the plug to a 12V outlet I have beside my cubbybox. Now the fan blows with gusto. I'll fit a switch to it, and it can be my AC Boost switch. I turned the thermostat dial to the right a bit more, and air temp dropped from 4.C to 0.C.

I wish I'd done this 10 years ago.

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This sounds great! Just spent quite a bit of money reinstating the aircon in my 130 with a pretty average result. Is this fan wire you speak of easily accessible?

After 11 years ownership with my 1998 300Tdi 130, earlier this year I finally did something about my aircon.

For most of the time that I owned the 130t, the aircon would work ok for about 40 minutes, then start spitting out ice, then it must have frozen over on the inside and then stopped blowing cold air. So i'd have to turn it off, let it thaw out for 30 minutes then turn it on again.

Then recently it was just constantly cutting in and out.

So the entire under dash unit was pulled out, fans pulled out, clean, rewired and a new remote TX valve was installed, plus a new compressor....and OMG what a different. Finally have decent air con!

There was these strange electrical parts that seemed to be the source of my constant cutting in and out problem.

Anyone have any idea what they are?

I wanted to revisit this as I have my A/C working now and man, it works great! We are getting record setting heat in the NW of the USA; week of 100°F (38°C) and this thing is blowing hard and cold. It’s actually better than my 2007 Range Rover Sport’s A/C. 😱

The problem I had was the compressor was not getting the 12v signal to turn on. It’s the black wire coming from the thermo unit in the battery compartment. I suspect it could be the sensor that is bad and maybe not allowing it to supply voltage or the thermo unit is bad.

I ended up using a relay to power it (with the trigger being the A/C turn on switch (red wire coming from the thermo unit). I know that is not ideal as it will be running all the time the A/C is on, but so far it has run really well without freezing up as far as I can tell. I’ve run it for 1.5 hours straight so far. I had thoughts of running it on a switch, but haven’t had a need yet.

I do get a lot of condensate dripping from the line outside the cabin from the drain line, so I suspect that is actually a good thing as it’s not freezing up…

FYI, this is the circuit diagram for the AMC AC

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachmen...n-defender.jpg

Another point is, when I had the aircon in my 2009 Puma Defender regassed and serviced, the workshop said there is a filter in it which also needs replacing.
They said it is often overlooked, which can be why regassed air-conditioning can still be disappointing.
I don't know if that is true of your air-conditioning, but it might be worth checking.
Hope that helps.

Does this system have a dryer. If so where is it located and what does it look like. I can't see it anywhere.
Also where would I purchase a replacement dryer.
Regards Alex

Where can I find the original vents that go with the underdash unit or are these also not being made

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Originally Posted by Gerry Robinson

Where can I find the original vents that go with the underdash unit or are these also not being made

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I sell them in the shop as well as stronger outer frames

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Originally Posted by incisor

I sell them in the shop as well as stronger outer frames

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Okay cheers mate I'll grab a few