Thanks, mate! I was able to grip with my fingers and turn the shaft. Fan blows! I can feel the 4 positions (0,1,2,3).
Bottom (temp) dial spins about the same degree as yours (270), so I suspect I just need to remove the dial and index it correctly to match 9 to 7.
Excellent advice, should be able to find something! Thanks. If you ever do come across one...
After 11 years ownership with my 1998 300Tdi 130, earlier this year I finally did something about my aircon.
For most of the time that I owned the 130t, the aircon would work ok for about 40 minutes, then start spitting out ice, then it must have frozen over on the inside and then stopped blowing cold air. So i'd have to turn it off, let it thaw out for 30 minutes then turn it on again.
Then recently it was just constantly cutting in and out.
So the entire under dash unit was pulled out, fans pulled out, clean, rewired and a new remote TX valve was installed, plus a new compressor....and OMG what a different. Finally have decent air con!
There was these strange electrical parts that seemed to be the source of my constant cutting in and out problem.
Anyone have any idea what they are?
Andrew
1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver
I wanted to revisit this as I have my A/C working now and man, it works great! We are getting record setting heat in the NW of the USA; week of 100°F (38°C) and this thing is blowing hard and cold. It’s actually better than my 2007 Range Rover Sport’s A/C. 😱
The problem I had was the compressor was not getting the 12v signal to turn on. It’s the black wire coming from the thermo unit in the battery compartment. I suspect it could be the sensor that is bad and maybe not allowing it to supply voltage or the thermo unit is bad.
I ended up using a relay to power it (with the trigger being the A/C turn on switch (red wire coming from the thermo unit). I know that is not ideal as it will be running all the time the A/C is on, but so far it has run really well without freezing up as far as I can tell. I’ve run it for 1.5 hours straight so far. I had thoughts of running it on a switch, but haven’t had a need yet.
I do get a lot of condensate dripping from the line outside the cabin from the drain line, so I suspect that is actually a good thing as it’s not freezing up…
FYI, this is the circuit diagram for the AMC AC
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
Another point is, when I had the aircon in my 2009 Puma Defender regassed and serviced, the workshop said there is a filter in it which also needs replacing.
They said it is often overlooked, which can be why regassed air-conditioning can still be disappointing.
I don't know if that is true of your air-conditioning, but it might be worth checking.
Hope that helps.
Does this system have a dryer. If so where is it located and what does it look like. I can't see it anywhere.
Also where would I purchase a replacement dryer.
Regards Alex
Where can I find the original vents that go with the underdash unit or are these also not being made
1998 Discovery 300TDi Manual SE7
1996 Discovery 300TDi Auto
2012 SZ Territory TX 2.7TDCi
"Make the lie big, make it simple, keep saying it, and eventually they will believe it." -- a warning from Adolf Hitler
"If you don't have a sense of humour, you probably don't have any sense at all!" -- a wise observation by someone else
'If everyone colludes in believing that war is the norm, nobody will recognize the imperative of peace." -- Anne Deveson
“What you leave behind is not what is engraved in stone monuments, but what is woven into the lives of others.” - Pericles
"The happiness of your life depends upon the quality of your thoughts." Marcus Aurelius
Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
---|
|
|
Bookmarks