Thread: Rattling Gear Stick at high revs

Remove gearstick.
Locate metal weights at the bottom of stick.
Remove weights and clean of grease etc and do the same for the casing area they sit in.
Get superglue or sikaflex 11 fc (takes longer to dry).
Glue weights in the area they sit in.
If using sikaflex let gearstick sit overnight before use.
Drive away with no more rattles!

Originally Posted by 1nando

Remove gearstick.
Locate metal weights at the bottom of stick.
Remove weights and clean of grease etc and do the same for the casing area they sit in.
Get superglue or sikaflex 11 fc (takes longer to dry).
Glue weights in the area they sit in.
If using sikaflex let gearstick sit overnight before use.
Drive away with no more rattles!

A slightly expanded and great guide to the above ... stolen from defender2.net

DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - Puma Gearstick rattle / vibration cure guide (with photos)

Mine did exactly as yours. This procedure sorts it perfectly

It looks like this remedy is not for an R380. I've recently had a rebuilt gearbox fitted (R380), and the gearstick has an annoying buzzy rattle I'd like to get rid of. Light finger pressure suppresses it. The original gearbox didn't do it.
Does anyone have suggestions for me?
Don.

Originally Posted by Don 130

It looks like this remedy is not for an R380. I've recently had a rebuilt gearbox fitted (R380), and the gearstick has an annoying buzzy rattle I'd like to get rid of. Light finger pressure suppresses it. The original gearbox didn't do it.
Does anyone have suggestions for me?
Don.

Don,
Check the bias spring adjustment, might just be a bit loose.
If no luck there then check for wear in the nylon bush that the pivot ball sits in (part#

FRC5859)

The later R380's also have a spring in the pivot ball so have a look at that for wear.

While it's out you may want to consider the Slickshift upgrade, reduces the shift pattern and well made.
Defender LT77 & R380 Slickshift inc TD5 | Online Gearbox Parts Shop

Cheers,
Paul.

I finally got around to getting the stick out today. I guess I've got an R380 as well as I was greeted by the spring set up. I looks as though my shifter has been cut at the bolt and been welded so the entire stick is one piece, looks nothing like the Haynes picture.
I tightened the bolts under the spring ends a bit but haven't got for a drive yet, so may been the bush.

That slickshift sounds nice, certainly something for when the seemingly never-ending problems are dealt with.

Originally Posted by Tas

I finally got around to getting the stick out today. I guess I've got an R380 as well as I was greeted by the spring set up. I looks as though my shifter has been cut at the bolt and been welded so the entire stick is one piece, looks nothing like the Haynes picture.
I tightened the bolts under the spring ends a bit but haven't got for a drive yet, so may been the bush.

That slickshift sounds nice, certainly something for when the seemingly never-ending problems are dealt with.

Tas, there is a bit more to it than simply tightening those bolts under the springs.
The adjustment there dictates where the gear stick sits and how it finds the gate.

Have a read, take your time and make sure you get it right,
It is a nice feeling to shift with an R380 that has this adjustment correct (saves fishing).

Cheers,
Paul.
Land Rover Workshop Manuals > 300Tdi Defender > MANUAL GEARBOX > GEAR CHANGE LEVER BIAS SPRING - ADJUST