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Thread: starting problems v8

  1. #1

    starting problems v8

    my car has a 3.5 v8, twin s.u. carbs, electronic ignition. petrol and LPG.


    after a 4 year standstill i got starting problems.

    drained the old petrol, fitted new fuel filter and extra in line filter. fixed carbs (one was overflowing). lpg and petrol switches work.

    fitted a new 70 AH battery. new rotor, new rotorcap, the left spark plugs are light brown and the h.t. cables have done less than 5000 km. also fitted new ignitionlock/starter.

    new ignition coil 12v for electronic ignition (Lucas DLM8, fitted new 3 pin amplifier, left blackwhite-wire to _ from coil, white wire from the right to + from coil).

    it doesn't start but when it is running it keeps running.

    I was going through tests in the workshopmanual section 86.
    - pick-up airgap; 0,25 mm, within margins
    -test 1 HT sparking no sparks
    -test 2 L.T. voltage v1 12,7 volt
    v2 12,15 volt
    v3 12,14 volt
    v4 0.00 volt all readings are correct

    -test 3 amplifier switching from + battery terminal to - from coil should register 0 volt; it registers 12,5 volt!
    with ignition on, it should still register 0 volt, but still registers 12,5 volt!
    i could not test increase in voltage during cranking.

    -test 4 pickup coil resistance it reads 3,16 k, within margins between 2k and 5 k.

    -test 5 coil h.t. sparking when cranking there is no spark

    still does not start.


    or is there something wrong with the test? measuring between positive battery terminal and _ from coil should register 12,5 volt?
    the testst are all the same and have not changed in wsmanuals from old range rover classic to 1990 discovery one.

    for running on lpg ignitiontiming 9 degrees BTDC?
    with no sparking i cannot check ignitiontiming; static i tested mark on rim 0 degrees and rotor at cylinder one, notch on reluctor nearest to magnetic pickup. (for electronic ignition i cannot find a precise method )

    i HOPE SOMEBODY CAN GIVE ME SOME ADVICE TO FIX THIS PROBLEM !!!!

    my car is a stage 1 v8, but i changed the engine to defender/range rover classic/ discovery one specs.
    IMG_2813[1].jpgguinness.jpglaro billing 2.jpglsro billing.jpg

    where are things going wrong?IMG_2848[1].jpgIMG_2850[1].jpgIMG_2851[1].jpgIMG_2852[1].jpgIMG_2849[2].jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Crafers West South Australia
    Posts
    9,593
    The voltage of the (-) post of the ignition coil will only be different to the (+) post when the electronic ignition is actually working. A voltage drop can be seen with a simple 12V test lamp when the engine is turning, the globe will flicker. The (-) post on an original points distributor will show a zero voltage when the points are closed but you will not see this with the electronic distributor fitted.

    To properly test the distributor pickup coil inside the distributor, remove the amplifier and test the resistance of the pickup via the terminals behind the amplifier. If the pickup is aligned with the point of the rotor, moving the shaft quickly will produce small voltages that will cause the measured resistance to vary quickly. I have replaced quite a few pickups that have been intermittent. Vacuum advance may move the wires.

    Oh and "new" rotor buttons are often rubbish and have internal faults to earth via the shaft. Check the spark at the main coil lead first.

    Finally, the Lucas ignition module is rubbish, I often replace them with a similar functioning Bosch module. There is a Chevrolet HEI module that can be used as well, it was used by Land Rover in the very first version of this type of electronic distributor, around 1985.

    If you don't read the newspaper, you're uninformed. If you read the newspaper, you're mis-informed.
    Mark Twain

  3. #3
    thanks for your reply; i measured the resistance of the pickupunit with the amplifier off. i allready tried to get that bosch unit to no avail (also looked on german ebay and small ads and local scrapyards), after reading your post.

    I will continue with testing, thanks.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    The voltage of the (-) post of the ignition coil will only be different to the (+) post when the electronic ignition is actually working. A voltage drop can be seen with a simple 12V test lamp when the engine is turning, the globe will flicker. The (-) post on an original points distributor will show a zero voltage when the points are closed but you will not see this with the electronic distributor fitted.

    To properly test the distributor pickup coil inside the distributor, remove the amplifier and test the resistance of the pickup via the terminals behind the amplifier. If the pickup is aligned with the point of the rotor, moving the shaft quickly will produce small voltages that will cause the measured resistance to vary quickly. I have replaced quite a few pickups that have been intermittent. Vacuum advance may move the wires.

    Oh and "new" rotor buttons are often rubbish and have internal faults to earth via the shaft. Check the spark at the main coil lead first.

    Finally, the Lucas ignition module is rubbish, I often replace them with a similar functioning Bosch module. There is a Chevrolet HEI module that can be used as well, it was used by Land Rover in the very first version of this type of electronic distributor, around 1985.
    I allready kept your post and try to get one of them bosch bim024; i will also search the other number 9 222 067 021. first i thought i had to get another type of pickup but saw you kept that part working. thanks for your info.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Crafers West South Australia
    Posts
    9,593
    The Chev HEI module looks like this one, with 4 pins and should be available worldwide.

    GM Chevy Ignition Control Module 4 Pin HEI Distributor | eBay

    The Bosch 024 module could be posted from Australia if needed. They were designed and made in Australia by Bosch but the last ones for sale have "made in Germany" printed on their boxes. Bosch modules from some 80's European carburettor/mechanical injection plus distributor models should work too if you can work out the wiring diagram and have the wiring plug. A 740 Volvo might have a suitable module as the early ones have an electronic distributor with mechanical and vacuum advance like the LR.

    If you don't read the newspaper, you're uninformed. If you read the newspaper, you're mis-informed.
    Mark Twain

  6. #6
    thanks i will have a look at scrapyards with volvo, bmw or mercedes parts.

    i also found this info on bosch ignitionmodules, where to connect the pins to and matching coils.
    Attached Files Attached Files

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