Cut a circle of tin around the same size as the shaft boss, clean the area thoroughly and silicone it over the shaft. If the shaft moves the tin won't allow the oil out.
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Cut a circle of tin around the same size as the shaft boss, clean the area thoroughly and silicone it over the shaft. If the shaft moves the tin won't allow the oil out.
I have a t/case on the floor and pondering a fix. It attaches to an auto box. Anything sitting too proud and broad of the intermediate hole may require some machining to the corresponding mating surface of the auto, and the material is not all that thick in that area - there is probably about 6 mm of gap.
Years ago I purchased a steel sleeve from MR Auto for this issue. The case would need to be milled to fit the steel ring. I can do the milling, but several things weigh on my mind - I might stuff up the milling (small chance) - but more importantly, while the steel insert may stop enlongation of the hole in the alloy casing, it won't stop the 0-ring being destroyed again and the leak will be back. I also wonder if in the long term any steel ring will loosen under the forces ie there will still be deformation of the case, but more widely spread out.
The bolted end of the shaft is supported in a way that stops movement - no leaks.
I'm wondering at the moment if the offending end of the shaft could be chamfered more extensively. A steel cap would be made that has an internal chamfer to match. When driven in, the cap chamfer will pick up on the shaft chamfer, giving the end of the shaft some support against movement (like a collet in a chuck). The o-ring will not be subject to so much compression. The cap will have a tab to one side that can be bolted to/through the casing, providing more resistance to movement. The downside might be that because the shaft wants to move it may force the cap away. This might be countered by drilling and threading a hole in the end of the shaft - drill a hole through the cap - draw the two together with a bolt.
Alternatively, rather than a chamfer, the very end of the shaft is simply lathed to a slightly smaller diameter without encroaching on the o-ring. The proposed cap has a hole, rather than chamfer, to match the reduced diameter of the shaft. Again drawn together by a bolt.
1/ Get a proper gearbox [wink11] Fixes the TC GB leak and faciliates the next step
2/Drill tap and install stud in cheese stick
3/Machine aluminium stepped plug install cheese stick and plug with your prefered goop
4/Enjoy leak free TC
This is where I disagree with JC .The solid spacer is one of the better TC mods just not suitable for the GB setup as it needs preload reset after say 20000 k
Drop the sump knock out the shaft and reset on the bench but need a lathe and dial gauge
AM
That is exactly what i was thinking what is in the pic Noel, just couldn't be bothered posting the idea. Will go this route if mine starts to leak