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Thread: Factory fault with Puma transfer case?

  1. #1
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    Factory fault with Puma transfer case?

    I recently decided to fix a minor intermediate shaft oil leak, and at 320,000kms decided to upgrade to an Ashcroft ATB centre diff, and check out the gearbox extension shaft, top make the exercise worthwhile. Before dismantling, I noticed that the intermediate shaft could move back and forth freely...didn't seem right to me that it should do this.

    Anyway, on re-assembly, and tensioning up the big nut, I found that I ran out of thread (on the shaft) before I'd removed all the end play. I needed to insert a decent washer under the nut to be able to continue tightening the nut. Just thought that it might be something others might want to check, as it's likely a factory fault with mine (2007 model).

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    Measure the length of thread on the shaft and thickness of nut .The nut should be about flush or slightly past the end for the stake to work properly,


    AM

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    Fascinating Brid. I'm no mechanic so sorry 😐 I can't offer advice, but I'm interested to learn.

    Could that movement be contributing to Puma shunt / clunk? How is / was yours at 320,00km?

    Mines only done 70,000km. Have done rear drive flanges and lubed/replaced input shaft. But still have some driveline clunk.

    How's everything else for you at those km's? ...Not many posts I can find from 300,000+ km Pumas. ...Anything major to report?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ancient Mariner View Post
    Measure the length of thread on the shaft and thickness of nut .The nut should be about flush or slightly past the end for the stake to work properly,


    AM
    Oh yeah
    The way you have that stake nut set you are going to be in a whole world of hurt if it comes loose and drops off

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    Id be back tracking to eliminate the possibility of an assembly fault. Something is just not right for that to be necessary and, as others have said, stake nut is barely doing its job.

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    Yes the washer was a little thicker than needed. It's a bit had to see from the photo, but the nut is indeed securely staked in the groove. Locktite used and a lot of torque required to squeeze up the crush tube (to remove end play).

    As I commented initially, there was excessive end play before pulling it apart, and the nut was already at the end of its thread, still staked fully...so just seems weird to me.

    I don't think it was a contributor to clunk, Zeros, and I didn't have much anyway. I was very happy with the condition of the transfer case, and was almost tempted to reuse all bearings they appeared so good. There was debris from one of the brass cone washers from the centre diff, which I'm told is very common, but very easy to swap to the Ashcroft ATB, as their diff is already set up.

    Likewise the wheel bearings are still all original and appear really good, but I'm in the process of changing them out now as well. Will overhaul brake calipers as well shortly...LH front has started to wear the inside pad much faster.

    I had my fair share of warranty problems, but after 100,000kms it's been great. A water pump, an alternator, a suction control valve are the main things that come to mind. Ah! Also clutch failure (spring from clutch plate came loose)...that was probably the only major thing! Original injectors still, and really been very reliable for me. Plenty of remote trips (Simpson x2, High Country x3, Flinders Ranges, Kimberleys, Dingo fence, etc) to shake the odd bolt loose, but runs pretty low stress really. I plan to keep it long term, so happy to spend on the upgrades.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Brid View Post
    Yes the washer was a little thicker than needed. It's a bit had to see from the photo, but the nut is indeed securely staked in the groove. Locktite used and a lot of torque required to squeeze up the crush tube (to remove end play).

    As I commented initially, there was excessive end play before pulling it apart, and the nut was already at the end of its thread, still staked fully...so just seems weird to me.
    Sounds like an assembly fault then.
    Shouldnt be maxed out from factory like that. Also, mine (and i thought all pumas) has a solid spacer and shims to remove endfloat, not a crush tube. Did you remove a crush tube?

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    Yes Simon, definitely a crush tube, which I replaced with a new one for re-assembly, as required.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Zeros View Post
    Fascinating Brid. I'm no mechanic so sorry Factory fault with Puma transfer case? I can't offer advice, but I'm interested to learn.

    Could that movement be contributing to Puma shunt / clunk? How is / was yours at 320,00km?

    Mines only done 70,000km. Have done rear drive flanges and lubed/replaced input shaft. But still have some driveline clunk.

    How's everything else for you at those km's? ...Not many posts I can find from 300,000+ km Pumas. ...Anything major to report?
    The clunk comes from a combination of spline play plus mostly backlash in the centre diff.

    An Ashcroft ATB is the nicest way to improve the driving of the car and eliminate diff backlash

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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    The clunk comes from a combination of spline play plus mostly backlash in the centre diff.

    An Ashcroft ATB is the nicest way to improve the driving of the car and eliminate diff backlash
    Cheers Rick, so you'd recommend an Ashcroft ATB in centre diff, as priority over front and rear? Has anyone done the centre diff alone?

    ...Obviously all three would be awesome with an unlimited budget.

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