Defender 2016 Chassis

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Originally Posted by Rolly

Hi Dallas,

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news however pg 104 of the Defender Owners handbook clearly states that "The towing eyes at the front and rear of the vehicle are designed for on-road recovery only".
I looked into this quite closely as needed recovery points prior to going up to Cape york.
I had an ARB deluxe Bull bar fitted,.it also stated it was not rated to be used in recovery(this includes attaching swivel hooks etc).

I finally opted for the APT front guard wich has rated recovery points integrated.

Good Luck.

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Thanks Rolly. I didn't look in the owners manual, I took my reference from my LR's manufacturer's workshop manual where they mention that you should avoid the snatch strap recovery. (don't ask me where I got it from) I certainly will avoid it with this new 110 in the future and I guess I will just use to the old girl when I am really remote. This new defender is a great vehicle to drive but I guess I am a little old school and have a lot more trust in the old girl's capabilities and limitations.

Thanks again, much appreciated.

Parking rules....if you don't have a tow bar I just spotted this. Looks like a good solution.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/10/478.jpg

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Originally Posted by Graekynn

The bolt for these front tie down points on my car does go through the chassis rail and looked like it was sleeved; and this bolt location is actually used for the mounting of the APT steering guard. However the steering guard mounts in four places which helps distribute the shock load of a recovery over multiple points.

The exact wording of that manual excerpt should have been written better to more explicitly state that these are tie down/road towing points only. With regards to the damage to your chassis it can certainly be repaired by a decent fabricator. To answer your initial concerns I wouldn't be chalking this up to a weak chassis, just a life lesson about rated recovery points.

Hope it all works out.

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Thank you for your advice. Yes, just another life lesson.
My 30+ years of driving Land Rovers in the bush has taught me many things. Most importantly never take anything for granted and in this case I thought what I had done for years in my old girls would translate unmodified to the new one. Sloppy on my part.

Don't stress it, most of us make mistakes from time to time.

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Originally Posted by Graekynn

The bolt for these front tie down points on my car does go through the chassis rail and looked like it was sleeved; and this bolt location is actually used for the mounting of the APT steering guard. However the steering guard mounts in four places which helps distribute the shock load of a recovery over multiple points.

The exact wording of that manual excerpt should have been written better to more explicitly state that these are tie down/road towing points only. With regards to the damage to your chassis it can certainly be repaired by a decent fabricator. To answer your initial concerns I wouldn't be chalking this up to a weak chassis, just a life lesson about rated recovery points.

Hope it all works out.

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Thank you for your advice. Yes, just another one of those life lessons. Still got a few to go :-)
My 30+ years of driving Land Rovers in the bush has taught me many things. Most importantly never take anything for granted and in this case I thought what I had done for years in my old girls would translate unmodified to the new one. Sloppy on my part.

Surely we are talking rear tie downs here
OP picture has a fuel tank in it
Anyone with a new fender want to check if they are thru bolted or not?

Although incs option looks good I would trust the chassis rails bridled over the rear cross member for heavy recovery

Al rear tow bar attaches to chassis rails as well as cross member

S

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Originally Posted by weeds

Parking rules....if you don't have a tow bar I just spotted this. Looks like a good solution.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/10/478.jpg

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Apparently the TDCi (PUMA) Defenders are not as strong across the rear crossmember as the older models. Google long enough (as I did a few years ago when researching rear recovery points) and you will find references to this.

I was originally going to get rid of the standard towing arrangement because it hung down too low. Then bolt nato/pintle hook to the rear crossmember. Advice I found online was not to do so on a Puma without added steps to spread load on the rear crossmember.

So unless the arrangement pictured is bolted right through and through a decent sized reinforcing plate behind the crossmember... I wouldn't trust it in a tough recovery.

If you do have a tow hitch then this is by far your best recovery option [thumbsupbig]

Attachment 131033

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Originally Posted by roverrescue

Surely we are talking rear tie downs here
OP picture has a fuel tank in it
Anyone with a new fender want to check if they are thru bolted or not?

Although incs option looks good I would trust the chassis rails bridled over the rear cross member for heavy recovery

Al rear tow bar attaches to chassis rails as well as cross member

S

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Just posted saying much the same - wouldn't trust a recovery point fitted direct to the rear crossmember (of a Puma) unless bolted through and with with a reinforcing plate behind the crossmember. Here are pics of my factory towbar (more a low hanging "plough blade") and what I modified to: military grade (came off an army vehicle) pintle, bolted right through with a load spreader plate behind the crossmember and retained the bridling to chassis rails.

Attachment 131035Attachment 131034

Quote:

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Originally Posted by roverrescue

Surely we are talking rear tie downs here
OP picture has a fuel tank in it
Anyone with a new fender want to check if they are thru bolted or not?

Although incs option looks good I would trust the chassis rails bridled over the rear cross member for heavy recovery

Al rear tow bar attaches to chassis rails as well as cross member

S

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You're probably right, the back of my 90 looks a little different to the photo and to be honest I thought that style of loop was only fitted to the front but a quick check of my car shows I have them on the back as well. They are through bolted and sleeved to support the box section in my case.

Dallas - your LR experience outstrips mine by a factor of 10 and im still learning about these machines myself! As far as im concerned the fact that a snatch recovery didnt rip the tie down out of the chassis completely speaks to the strength of the chassis and ability to withstand forces in excess of design, I wouldnt hesitate to do it if I was really stuck and out of options. However, if it helps in my case im considering a hayman reese style tow pack which will double as a rear recovery point with the block insert shown above as it has multiple points of attachment.