When you are 100% leds both sides will flash. You need an RDX dash indicator light or load resistors to fix the problem.
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When you are 100% leds both sides will flash. You need an RDX dash indicator light or load resistors to fix the problem.
Excuse my ignorance Red90, but if you have the time, can you explain what causes this? How does lowering the resistance below a certain threshold end up allowing current to pass through the opposite side?
In the meantime, I think my easiest option is to just leave the bulbs in the side repeaters. Can't find an RDX dash indicator light online.
Cheers,
Firstly, you're increasing resistance not decreasing it but that isn't relevant.
Normally a bulb is wired so that it is supplied 12V on one side and earthed on the other. The indicator warning light bulb is wired in to both the left and right indicator circuits; when the left indicators are lit, 12V is supplied to that side of the bulb while the earth is supplied through the bulbs that make up the right side indicator circuit and vice versa.
When incandescent bulbs make up the earth path there's no problem - the indicator warning light bulb limits current to a fraction of an amp - much too low to light one bulb let alone 3. The problem is that LEDs are so damn efficient, almost any current will light them up. And so it does.
By the looks of it, the RDX bulb is two diodes into one side of an LED with an earth strap sticking out. Easy to replicate. When I had that problem I rewired the indicator warning bulb to flash with one side of the indicators and the trailer warning bulb to light with the other. That was before I got jack of the whole warning light cluster and made my own.
As Dervis explains the single turn signal indicator in the dash grounds through the lights on the opposite side. LEDs will not pass any current until they reach a certain voltage level (called the forward voltage). It then does not take much to get them to light up. The way the circuit is built, it causes all the lights to turn on. Adding in a resistor, prevents the voltage rising to the forward voltage and the lights cannot turn on until there is enough current available. The dash light limits the current to a point that the voltage can't get high enough.
The best fix is to change the way the dash light is wired. RDX makes one that does this. This is basically a couple of diodes that direct the current through the dash light directly to ground instead of through the opposite side lights.
RDX Fix Kit For LED Indicator Lights Land Rover Defender 200Tdi 300Tdi | eBay
Closing the loop on this one. Turns out my WIPAC flasher was cactus. Bought an RDX one. No problems at all!
BTW, is the Wipac flasher meant to make the usual clicking sound? Mine doesn't (but all the lights work perfectly).
Strange happenings!
I fitted a WIPAC LED flasher to my D1(300 Tdi) after changing all indicator bulbs, except the two side repeaters ... or so I thought.
Turns out I pulled the main front indicators out to change the bulbs, but I put them back in without changing them! [bigwhistle]
Never had an issue with the indicators working at all, clicking sound and all. Tuned the variable thingie to the point where the trailer light didin't come on.
Then one day it just happened to start flashing fast, which happened to be the day I realised that I forgot to change the front indicator globes. Left globe burnt out.
TJM style bullbar indicator light fittings were changed with new ones that didn't weld the globes in via rust! .. and now all indicators other than the side repeaters are LED.
Works perfectly.
WIPAC LED module doesn't technically fit into the D1(different shape), but it does use the same 4 pin layout. I made up 4 short leads to fit the relay, and used a tie strap to hold the relay into a secure spot.
Hopefully no more burnt out indicator globes(rears are a total PITA to replace on a D1)