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5 Attachment(s)
Col,
No camper on my 130.
A dog box at rear of 1800 tray which perfectly fits an MSA dropslide and 40L engel. Solar on roof of dog box and battery on port rear cross member.
Works well, most of time just the dogs get the rear but when camping with dogs they squish into half box and if camping without dogs can throw light gear into the box
A few pictures below tell the story
Just noticed the last picture was before I mounted the battery on rear cross member. Will update photos but essentially have a 130AH AGM mounted off the tray chassis rail with pickup point to cross member.
Manual switching of solar panels and then 1,2 both off rotary switch so solar/alternator can charge cranker or AGM or both. Fridge can be run off either or both batteries. Gives me total control of 12V with no fuss.
Run a Victron solar controller with BR dongle so have a good idea of whats going on at all times.
Steve
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The aforementioned cab-chassis conversion manual can be found by scrolling down a bit here:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/local_lin...N&page=2&pp=10
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Vlad.
Thanks for linking the doc
Do note however that the doc mentions to attach tray to rear cross member and then two chassis members as far forward as possible with no hard connections in-between
HOWEVER
Summitts' and others experience has been to limit off-road chassis cracking there is value in essentially building a forward cross member (like the rear crossmember)
Then the tray rails are bolted (softly) to front and rear cross members.
My design used 75x75x5 angle with some other angles etc to build up enough height above fuel filter and clearance for spare and tanks - but the front cross member is solid bolted to existing chassis in 6 places.
Tray rails are then softly bolted to the front and rear cross members.
My old tdi 130 had no front cross member and I re-welded both chassis and tray rails on several occasions. The front cross member seems to be a winner even though it is not mentioned in that Landrover PDF.
Steve
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What do you mean by "softly bolted" ?
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As in not hard bolted!
Either the spring mount through bolts as mentioned above or engine mounts or other rubber mounts with some give.
I think the lesson is the landy chassis is relatively flexible - if you hard bolt a rigid tray to it the chassis will still want flex - and that flex needs to be accounted for.
IME having it solidly bolted at the rear cross member and flexible mounting at the front cross member gives good long term results.
S
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6 Attachment(s)
Here's how I ended up doing my 130 DC tray which is very stiff.
Front most mounts are bolted to a tie bar that is welded to the tray, this gives some flex.
Attachment 133719
The middle mounts that have a tendency to crack are mounted with some old Inter valve springs to allow some flex.
Attachment 133720
Attachment 133721
Attachment 133722
The rear of the tray is solidly mounted with a rubber between the tray and the chassis
Attachment 133723
And the tray
Attachment 133724
It's been on there for 18 months now and seems to be holding up, these pics were on the other thread but photobucket ate them.
Regards,
Tote
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I’ve been reading a few posts about this recently. So it’s probably time I also did something about my 130. I’m currently running a Triple M steel tray mounted to the front original mounts for a HCPU tub and the triple m mounts for the rear 2 mounts (simple angle ran across the rear cross member)
There is no rubber or anything between the mounts and the chassis.
What sort of rubber is recommended? I tried Clarke rubber and they could only supple some insertion rubber which seems too soft on my opinion.
Cheers
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I just used clarke rubber insertion rubber between the mounts and the tray, seems to do the job of quietening it down, I had to remount mine after the dealer mounted it rigidly when they delivered the vehicle.
Regards,
Tote
