What did you do on your Defender today ? (well, this week anyway)

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Originally Posted by barney

Well, for the last couple of weeks, I've been tracing a fault in my rhs blinker circuit on my 1984 110 truck cab.
I'm finding some horrible things and it's looking like I might have to install another wiring loom to run the auxiliary lights, (blinkers, brake, tail, Parker, reverse) because it will be near impossible to run a new wiring loom without ripping the body off the chassis, and I don't want to do that.
I'm finding that a lot of the cables that are or have been exposed to the elements are perished and the insulation has cracked and caused the cable cores to break down. Still haven't found the actual short yet, but getting cloSer. It's not the actual blinkers, the hazard switch is by-passed, the relay is fine, and it's got a new indicator stalk, this is why I am thinking about the loom.

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Further to this, I replaced the rear lighting loom, tested each light individually and they all worked great. I took it for a drive to test them and 10 minutes in, they started playing up again.
Back into the carport for more work. Over the last couple of weeks I traced out the LHS circuit, which is the faulty one, not the RHS as I wrote initially - typo! Then last weekend I pulled the instrument cluster out again and started tracing wires, the Green with red tracer wire (LHS indicator) was sweated together and heat shrunk in a cluster of 5. Pulled that apart, tested each one and traced it to it's source, found no faults.
In the end, I had one of those "I wonder if?" moments and removed the indicator bayonet no the back of the dash and basically fixed the problem.
The issue was that the bayonet clips in to a recess on a printed circuit board in the dash. The older 110s used only one light to tell you the indicators were going, by sending power through the incandescent bulb one way for left and the other way for right (swapping polarity), found this out by trying to fit an LED bulb instead.
So waht had happened was that a short had occurred between these contacts which screwed up the whole system.
Working now though, the YOOT lives again!

On Monday I dropped it off at a mechanic's to get the injectors done plus a couple of other issues. Told them they could have it until early next week.

Removed and put sealant under all the drive members due to the L/R specialist mechanic I paid $300 (plus installing Cv's and axles) for the job didn't do it as he didn't think it was needed. We even discussed how I had converted the rear wheel bearings to oil lubrication. I went back a week later to show him oil flicking out everywhere on my white OE rims thinking he would rectify it straight away, only to be told he could fix it in 3-4 weeks as he was busy. Also had to apply Loctite and torque all bolts as they were, I'm guessing, tightened with an impact gun and were way over spec. Also found the shims for the front axles under the flange cover nuts instead of under the circlip for axle preload as well. Running out of places to go here.

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Originally Posted by micksta1973

.......L/R specialist mechanic I paid $300 ....... Running out of places to go here.

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where are you located?

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

On Monday I dropped it off at a mechanic's to get the injectors done plus a couple of other issues. Told them they could have it until early next week.

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Is this the first service of your injectors? From memory yours has done 600k ish

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Originally Posted by W&KO

Is this the first service of your injectors? From memory yours has done 600k ish

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They were serviced at about 160,000, and I was told I had wasted my money! (current mileage is about 645,000km)

Thought they should be looked at after doing round 500,000km, especially since I plan to drive to Perth next month. Still starts easily even in cold weather, and fuel consumption is unchanged, but I get the feeling it is a bit down on power (although not much) and can be a bit smoky.

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

They were serviced at about 160,000, and I was told I had wasted my money! (current mileage is about 645,000km)

Thought they should be looked at after doing round 500,000km, especially since I plan to drive to Perth next month. Still starts easily even in cold weather, and fuel consumption is unchanged, but I get the feeling it is a bit down on power (although not much) and can be a bit smoky.

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Thanks John

Enjoy your trip to Perth

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Originally Posted by ezyrama

Put the Tardis in to have an Ashcroft's output shaft kit installed, replace a split turbo hose (top one) and the 122k service.

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Got it back, even though the local dealer did the recall for the non lubricated output shaft 50k ago, when the old one came out, it was dry as a dead dingoes donger and the splines were badly damaged to the point where we think it would have probably failed within the next 10-15k. Feels like a different car to drive now, a lot smoother.

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Originally Posted by ezyrama

Got it back, even though the local dealer did the recall for the non lubricated output shaft 50k ago, when the old one came out, it was dry as a dead dingoes donger and the splines were badly damaged to the point where we think it would have probably failed within the next 10-15k. Feels like a different car to drive now, a lot smoother.

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'Dry as a dead dingoes donger'- love it. Classic Oz slang. Can you imagine a Chinese visitor's confusion hearing that?
[emoji16]

Picked up the 110 from the mechanic's this morning. They have had the injectors overhauled, replaced the priming pump, and fixed the baffling short in high beam.

Not cheap though - injectors $185 each was the main item! Add labour, the primer, and a service, and it was $1327.

The little distance I have driven since suggests noticeably better performance, and perhaps a bit noisier, but that may be because for the last two weeks I have been driving my grand daughter's D2.