The two that in your photo are partially tightened just above the brake line.
I still had to mess around with jacking up the diff but it was much easier that way.
Cheers,
Mark
The two that in your photo are partially tightened just above the brake line.
I still had to mess around with jacking up the diff but it was much easier that way.
Cheers,
Mark
Thanks MarkQuote:
Originally Posted by Zcoota
Assume the chassis is supported with stands for this?
I did but I was doing a complete diff assembly swap and had the coils and radius rods out as well. (Also put a couple of wheels under the chassis just in case I bumped something hard and dislodged a stand.... cars falling on people is way too common)
Thanks again MarkQuote:
Originally Posted by Zcoota
Trying to fix wiring issue in the Puma now, will have to come back to the Tdi next weekend :-(
You need a jack under the nose of the diff, with the trolly jack under the housing it forces the nose down
AM
Treated the XGTs to new clear covers, its surprising how cloudy they can become without you noticing.
Attachment 154505
Regards,
Tote
Yes I am still trying to get this dam A frame ball joint on, I have lost count of the hours spent on this so far. I must be doing something very basic wrong as it just is not working for me. The ground it is on is not all that level so maybe that’s contributing to my challenge. As I said previously I have tried every permutation suggested here (except the G clamp). Some I have tried three or four times now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ancient Mariner
When I have put the fulcrum bolts in first I just can not get enough thread from the A frame ball joint through the hole to start the nut on the thread so I am back putting the ball joint in first and trying to get the second (forward) fulcrum bolt in as you can see in the photo.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3c5a218b50.jpg
So this is where I am at now which is the most advanced I have been. I have a screwdriver jammed in the other side to try and line up the holes but that’s not really helping much. What do I need to do from here to get the second bolt in? Not matter how the vehicle is jacked (axle, chassis or on the ground or a combination) when I jack the nose of the diff it always goes the wrong way.
Appreciate any more suggestions.
Cheers - Simon
Hey mate,Quote:
Originally Posted by travelrover
I had another look at your photos and noticed that you have the trolley jack directly under the pumpkin. When I did mine, I had the jack centred on the diff housing i.e. to the left of the pumpkin. I did try it the same way as you have at first but it pushed the lhs down and the rhs up which stopped me getting the ball joint in.
I feel for you. If I lived nearby I'd be more than happy to give you hand.
Cheers,
Stan.
Thanks StanQuote:
Originally Posted by Standard
Oh man driving me nuts! It shouldn’t be this difficult. I’ll have another go tomorrow.. at least it’s not my daily drive but it would be nice to have the job done. Yes that’s what it’s doing now one side up one side down.. god knows how many times I’ve jacked it up and down...
Plenty of other things I could/should be doing!
Cheers - Simon
I know that this has been frustrating, but remember that theoretical knowledge and experiential knowledge are two different things. From what you've said, it sounds like this has been a good learning experience so far, with no significant damage to you, your car or your wallet.Quote:
Originally Posted by travelrover
When you have finished this job you will feel relieved and when start the next job you will do it from a more knowledgeable base.
I could tell you that it took me 2.5 hours to do the same job. But it really took me 20 years (as a Fitter) and 2.5 hours.
Cheers,
Stan.
