Yes, RT+
Inspired by JDNSW's approach to replacing his Clutch & Welch Plug (see here https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-ii...ml) where he didn't rush to get it done and therefore did quite a bit of other minor repairs/tidying up along the way.
I needed to replace the offside rear hub oil seal which I noticed was dropping oil on the inside of the tyre/wheel and being locked down due to the pandemic, I didn't need to hurry. I gathered all the tools required for the job & began to dismantle the hub.
A secondary advantage to having oil fed wheel bearings is that you get a warning (oil leaking onto wheel & tyre) when a seal fails before the bearing fails - as I've often seen with greased bearings. Also, once dismantled, with oil fed bearings instead of greased bearings, everything is much easier to clean up.
I decided to take the brake backing plate off to clean the area easier and noticed a couple of small cracks developing around one of the mounting bolts. A bit of time on the welder and a bit of paint then I cleaned everything up before deciding it was time for lunch while everything dried.
After a long lunch and a few other non related chores it was time to put everything back together which was so easy with everything nice and clean. All up, I spent most of the day doing a job which I have previously done in a quarter of the time. On reflection, I'm not sure if my leisurely approach to the job was due to ageing or the covid lockdown!
Trip before last to town the cruise control stopped working.
As I was still reassembling the 2a, and dreading the thought of troubleshooting it (last time this happened it was a broken wire joining to a pin on a plug), I decided to leave it.
Last night I had a thought - maybe it is a mechanical problem, which at least would be easy to identify? (It is an aftermarket cruise control, fitted before I left Melbourne, which means before 1994.)
So I dashed out with a torch and lifted the bonnet to see if there was anything obvious. Bingo!
The bowden cable from the vacuum actuator has its inner cable connected to the throttle lever on the injection pump bu about 3cm of the sort of chain that is made of a row of balls, to allow the accelerator cable to move the lever without interference. It had broken away at the lever end.
So this afternoon, after cutting a small load of firewood, I took it to the shed, opened the bonnet right back against the roof, and went to work. Took me less than an hour to remove the broken chain, shorten it by a link, reassemble, and adjust the cable position. Assuming that all the links are also worn, I'll see if I can find some more of this chain in town when next there.
Loosened up the six bolts & nuts on the radius arms in preparation for replacing the bushes when they arrive, tomorrow hopfully.
All went well except that I broke a 40 year old 21mm Sidchrome socket in the process. I hope they still honour their lifetime warranty!
Also had to buy a 30mm ring spanner to get to the rear (chassis end) nut without having to remove the auxiliary fuel tank.
Got the head back on last weekend after head gasket change, hopeing to get it started on the weekend Attachment 172629
Years ago (200?) I broke a 1/2" drive bar trying to loosen a wheel nut that the tyre place had done up - they refused to honour it. I don't see how they could have known about the four feet of pipe over it I was jumping on. (I borrowed some 3/4 drive sockets to undo it)
I've been having trouble starting in the mornings lately. ('97 300TDI). It's been running perfectly well during the day once started. Did some googling, and thought the perished return hoses from the injectors problem might be the culprit. A metre of silicone hose from Ebay and the problem has gone away. The old hoses pretty much disintegrated as I pulled them off.
Silicone Tubing 3mm ID X 4mm OD 3.28ft 1m Flexible Silicon Rubber Tube Clear 784958107676 | eBay
Don.
It required cranking two or three times on the first start of the day. after that it ran perfectly well all day. That lead me to think air was getting in over night, which in turn lead me to pick the perished injector return line problem. It only took about $10.00 and about 10 mins to do the job, so if you're in doubt, just do it and eliminate that possibility. Easy.
Don.