Ventilation piping gap Puma Defender

I've also decided to fit a second snow cowl to the driver's side to match the one covering the ventilation air intake on the passenger side.
This follows a long and interesting thread about the best way of lowering the temperature under the bonnet.
Some people fit forward facing scoops to ram air in, but others say that actually makes it harder for the radiator. They say the aim is to get high pressure on the front of the radiator and lower pressure behind to suck air through the radiator and cool the coolant, which then cools the engine.
The way to get lower pressure in the engine bay behind the radiator is to vent the hot air out, so lowering the air pressure in the engine bay. Range Rovers have tall vents in the mudguards ahead of the doors.
How to vent more hot air in a Defender? There are vents which can be fitted to the mudguards of Defenders, but that means cutting holes, which I am reluctant to do.
So, I remembered the fake vent in the top of the driver's side mudguard and thought I'd just replace it with another snow cowl, to vent hot air. Excellent idea!
So I will order a right hand cowl to match this one.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...018/01/986.jpg

We have both... at speed nothing vents out there...

I just did it for symmetry

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tombie

We have both... at speed nothing vents out there...

I just did it for symmetry

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Interesting it doesn't vent out, but air does come in the other side to the ventilation ducting.

Hi guys, I'm a bit late to the party, but I had the 'not as cold' aircon, and it turned out that the adjustment of the wire actuator on the heater mixer valve was not closing off completely (roundish white plastic thing in the engine bay, on the firewall near blower). The wire push rod was at full adjustment on the heater control dial in the cab, but not driving home on the actual coolant tap valve. This can be amnually adjusted 'by hand' to see if this is a factor for you. Result- air con is fighting the heater core.
I'm sure that air ingress via the ducting plays a part, but might pay to look at this too.

So much dam dust in my car after our last trip across the bight and with a month in the kimberleys coming up i'm going to actually fix it.

Today i spoke to unifilter and ended up ordering a square meter of 12mm filter foam, 45ppi, per their recommendation.

Not sure where it's going yet, but going to start by putting a slab under the snow cowl or just below the wingtop grill. I'm thinking easy access for cleaning as it will be a prefilter. I'll see how it goes and if i need to look at retrofitting something additional at the heater-box end.

Regarding the ducting, I'll seal that up as depicted in the posts above.

if all else fails I'll have more than enough leftover to jam into the AC vents! [bigrolf]

Will post update and photos in the next couple of weeks

Thanks yes keep us updated

It will be even better if you use a filter equivalent to n99 mask. You know for the increassed pm 2.5 and pm10 particular around your puma
(Just joking haha

The air duct gets a bit smelly in my defender...Anybody has a solution?

Cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Toxic_Avenger

Hi guys, I'm a bit late to the party, but I had the 'not as cold' aircon, and it turned out that the adjustment of the wire actuator on the heater mixer valve was not closing off completely (roundish white plastic thing in the engine bay, on the firewall near blower). The wire push rod was at full adjustment on the heater control dial in the cab, but not driving home on the actual coolant tap valve. This can be amnually adjusted 'by hand' to see if this is a factor for you. Result- air con is fighting the heater core.
I'm sure that air ingress via the ducting plays a part, but might pay to look at this too.

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Thanks. That's very interesting. I hadn't thought of that. Will have to check.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by martnH

The air duct gets a bit smelly in my defender...Anybody has a solution?

Cheers

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Hi,
Put your hand over the duct and feel for the rubber duck beak valve.
Give it a squeeze to drain the leaves/dust/gunge out.
You could probably flush it with hot water as well.

Cheers

Hello All,
I've got my lower dash (air duct) out at present in my TD5, and should be ready to look at it shortly. My trucks had bad mould through it a couple of times, and I guess there could be anything growing in that air duct. I don't really want to pull it all apart as foam inside feels ok.
I'm thinking I might soak it in pine o clean and water, rinse and dry it out in the Brissie sun.
Any better ideas/ suggestions?
Cheers
Mark

Got to sorting mine out on the weekend

• 12mm filter foam, 45ppi, from unitfilter: ~$50/m2
• Self adhesive flashing tape from bummings hardware: $12

Used the wingtop intake grille as a template to cut a foam filter and fitted between the duct and the wingtop. I just squashed it between the two, left the grille out and put the cowl back on. Then sealed ducting per previous posts (thanks all) with the flashing tape.
https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery...46b1bcad9b.jpg. https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery...e6cf1b4cba.jpg. https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery...9def022080.jpg

i have not oiled the filter yet, i'll see if it does much dry. Does not appear to be impeding the airflow.