Originally Posted by
drivesafe
Hi Kidbeen, the lowering of the Cut-Out/Turn-Off voltage is more to do with the Cut-In/Turn-On voltage level.
Before the introduction of variable voltage alternators, or so called "smart alternators", the Cut-In/Turn-On voltage of most isolators was 13.7v or a little higher for some.
These usually had a Cut-Out/Turn-Off voltage of around 12.7 to 12.9v
This was all good and well until alternators would some times drop below 12.7, turning the isolator off, but then not get back up to 13.7v, so the isolator would remain off.
So they dropped the Cut-In/Turn-On to around 13.2v and at first, left the Cut-Out/Turn-Off as was.
In many cases, because the Cut-In and Cut-Out voltages were now to close, this resulted in the isolator oscillating, continually turning on and off all the time you were driving.
This type of isolator oscillation also caused problems in many new vehicles, including Discovery 3s when they first came out.
So they eventually dropped the Cut-Out/Turn-Off voltage to 12.5v and this stopped most of the oscillation.
Fortunately, my isolators have never suffered with this type of problem.