Mist.
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Mist.
Just fitted the part (well the mechanic did - cost me $90 - a bargain) and I now have hot, cold and, best of all, luke warm. Thanks for all the advice. What a marvellous resource AULRO is!!Quote:
Originally Posted by AlmorWalton
Yes, mine seems to be working well now too.
In future the first thing I would do would be to adjust and oil the cable and maybe unclip the cable and pull it further through, just to make sure it was going all the way over.
If that didn't work I would unclip the hoses and flush the inside of the heater valve to make sure no crud was stopping it from closing fully.
If that failed then I would replace the valve.
Oh, and get the aircon unit serviced, including a new filter for the compressor.
So that's what I've learned.
Add my thanks to those who have made it possible to fix this problem.
Yep agree, great resource and crowd thinking!
Thanks, mine is working great!
I've been following this along and lurking in the background with a similar issue.
Just wanted to say thank you to the brains trust.
Is yours fixed?Quote:
Originally Posted by mwbrydon
Sure is! I just pulled the arm across and gave the cable an oil and haven't had a problem since.
Have bookmarked this page for future reference.
So, as an update, the air-con was still only cool, not cold, after 10 mind of driving, unlike our Mazda which is an icebox.
As I've explained in my Members Rides thread, but will also mention here, I had a chat to the local air-con guy Darren at Jay Kay's Auto Electrical and Air Conditioning in Moss Street at Slack's Creek.
He said a lot of Queenslander just bypass their heaters because they are redundant in a hot tropical climate.
So today I got them to fit a valve in the hose carrying hot coolant from the radiator to the heater valve, so stopping hot water from reaching the heater. Cost was $179.
Fitting a valve with a tap means I can block the hot coolant, but if I ever go south in winter I can just turn the tap to reopen it for heating. So best of both worlds.
A couple of points to note:
Ordinary plastic valves are not good enough to handle hot coolant, so this is a Pirtek metal valve.
The original coolant hose was not cut, but an extension was added. This means if the Pirtek valve is ever removed the original coolant hose will still be long enough to reach.
So far I've only done a 40 minute drive but the air-con stayed cold so that's promising. Next week we drive Brisbane - Sydney so that will be the test.
It's interesting that Land Rover thought a generic Fiat Peugeot Citroen plastic heater valve would cope with 100 degree coolant until the 100,000 km warranty expired, but
Pirtek says plastic is not good enough. Sounds like cost-cutting to me.
Here's a pic:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...37d305331e.jpg
Should the hose with bleeding screw go to the other port of the heater control valve? I thought the bleeding screw should be at the highest point.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoMick
Yeah I think they are the wrong way, unless there has been change of design, would you not be passing hot coolant into the heater core constantly with them that way, except you have a tap now.Quote:
Originally Posted by labrado
Attachment 146576
