110 Puma Passenger rear doors Central Locking doesn’t!

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Originally Posted by Handy Harry

Thanks for this info. The right rear door central locking carked it a few months ago. I thought it was probably the actuator so put it in the too hard basket. After reading this thread I checked the wires and sure enough the pink one was severed. I grafted in a new section and all works well again. I will upgrade the left door while I am at it. I did have to remove the door lining. This was on a 130 dualcab.

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Excellent! Well sluethed.

I'm suffering this issue, but the wires in mine seem to be OK as I measured the voltage between the 2 wires, when I press the lock button on the fob, I got about +12v. When I press the unlock, I got -12v.
So do I have to replace the actuator?

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Originally Posted by labrado

I'm suffering this issue, but the wires in mine seem to be OK as I measured the voltage between the 2 wires, when I press the lock button on the fob, I got about +12v. When I press the unlock, I got -12v.
So do I have to replace the actuator?

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Thank you guys, broken wires found in the rubber hosehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3abe4d28ee.jpg

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Originally Posted by labrado

Thank you guys, broken wires found in the rubber hosehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3abe4d28ee.jpg

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That's the same as happened to mine.

Hiyas

Yep. been there done that. However, my reasons for failures were metal fatigue of copper wire, internally. (wire strands and insulation too hard for the curve and not enough strands) First did a bypass which only lasted a couple of months.

Final fix?? removed harness all together, both sides, clipped off the plugs with enough "solder" length, then inserted/soldered in an appropriate length of large diameter many strands (copper) "soft" HiFi speaker wire.

This fault is/was also a prime suspect in 10AS security module problem. This has happened again since. [bigsad]

Cheers

RF

Ha, over a year after I asked about this issue, I’ve finally got around to giving my 110 some Lock luvin.

My orage wires were broken in both mid passenger doors, so I’ve repaired accordingly, and all’s good.

My rear lock was very rarely unlocking as well, so I removed the card, cleaned the red dust as much as I could, liberal silicone spray and silicon grease to the catches.

It all works as intended now. I love spending an afternoon on the vehicle and sorting any issues out.

Thanks for the guidance folks, and best wishes from Tassie.

Ken
Attachment 153706Attachment 153707

I had this prob. on the Puma and soldered a short length of softer wire in which certainly solved it for me. Seems like just another bit of Ford penny pinching after they took over as my 300Tdi and Td5 never suffered from the problems the Puma did.
I was glad to see the back of it actually although I'd spent plenty making sure it was a good vehicle. Dazza did a fair bit of the work for me like axles and output shaft.
AlanH.

PS. I did both doors just to make sure plus put those small extenders on which let the doors open wider.

I think adding the extenders to mine may have pulled the wires tighter and made it more likely they would break.

Hi Nick.
Yes, I’ve the extenders as well, and my left rear door had clearly snapped both the pink and orange wire in the same spot, so I added a 5cm extension to the wiring repair.
All good now.👍

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Originally Posted by DiscoMick

I think adding the extenders to mine may have pulled the wires tighter and made it more likely they would break.

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I too was thinking it was actuators or something major until I read this thread. Both rear doors had stopped working on my 130. Pulled out the rubber grommets and lo and behold both orange wires were severed where they bend.

Replaced them with thicker wire with lots of strands and put in an extra length so it does not kink in the same spots and wallah, central locking up and working again.

Thanks guys for an easy fix