Thread: Popping front end under braking?

I should add that Bruce had a look at the diff and it's fine, and last time he had it (6 months) he checked CVs and hubs they were good too

Try hanging a big socket bar off the forward arm nuts under the diff and give them a little more tension. I've seen a fair few of those on D1s and RRCs create similar noises due to not being 100% tight. You may spot faint traces of fine rust stains around the nuts if they're moving under load. In the worst case scenario the bolts wear steps into their shanks and damage the threads.

Originally Posted by bee utey

Try hanging a big socket bar off the forward arm nuts under the diff and give them a little more tension. I've seen a fair few of those on D1s and RRCs create similar noises due to not being 100% tight. You may spot faint traces of fine rust stains around the nuts if they're moving under load. In the worst case scenario the bolts wear steps into their shanks and damage the threads.

Thanks mate.

I assume you mean the radius arm bolts as in photo?

Should the arms be snug up against the plates? Mine has about 2mm either side but the anti crush tube appears to be snug...

Originally Posted by carpdvl

Thanks mate.

I assume you mean the radius arm bolts as in photo?

Should the arms be snug up against the plates? Mine has about 2mm either side but the anti crush tube appears to be snug...

Yep, they're the bolts I meant. Their trouble is that the bolts aren't a precision fit inside the crush tubes and the tubes move in a sudden fashion when loaded by braking or cornering. The bolt's clamping force is what stops the crush tubes moving about. You may have to take the nuts off and lubricate the threads to get maximum clamping force. This applies to any HT bolt of course, lightly oil the thread for best results. Side clearance of the arms is immaterial and just a function of the shape of the rubber bushes.

Originally Posted by bee utey

Yep, they're the bolts I meant. Their trouble is that the bolts aren't a precision fit inside the crush tubes and the tubes move in a sudden fashion when loaded by braking or cornering. The bolt's clamping force is what stops the crush tubes moving about. You may have to take the nuts off and lubricate the threads to get maximum clamping force. This applies to any HT bolt of course, lightly oil the thread for best results. Side clearance of the arms is immaterial and just a function of the shape of the rubber bushes.

That makes complete sense and works as an explanation. I'll give them a do over this eve and report back (in case in future anyone else wants to know).

Much appreciated

Originally Posted by bee utey

Yep, they're the bolts I meant. Their trouble is that the bolts aren't a precision fit inside the crush tubes and the tubes move in a sudden fashion when loaded by braking or cornering. The bolt's clamping force is what stops the crush tubes moving about. You may have to take the nuts off and lubricate the threads to get maximum clamping force. This applies to any HT bolt of course, lightly oil the thread for best results. Side clearance of the arms is immaterial and just a function of the shape of the rubber bushes.

You bee uty!

Worked a treat. Little tricky to get the angles working to put some real pressure on the bolts but tightened em up as much as I could muster and noise is all gone.

Thanks for the advice

Good to see.

Originally Posted by bee utey

Good to see.

Arghhh - if I only I knew about this 10yrs ago. Had exactly the same symptoms on my 110 and spend an age trying to identify the problem. Ended up just living with it for about 3 yrs!!!

But... I have a near identical issue just pop up on my current RRC, so I'll try this solution first!