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And also if the vehicle was serviced as per manufacturers spec,at an Indie,or for that matter by any fully qualified workshop,and the service records were available,i would presume the outcome from LRA should be the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by rar110
Correct and good you bring this up for owners, there STILL seems to be this myth about having to use dealers to keep warranty.Quote:
Originally Posted by scarry
Also with regards to other comments, its not dealers pushing manufacturers such as Jaguar Land Rover to do the right thing, its been the focus of the ACCC.
I recently had a customers new Range Rover Sport (the new all alloy model), had a major engine failure 2 months out of warranty, I personally went down to the dealer and supplied them the service records of the vehicle (which exceeded the manufacturers service specs) and the replacement engine wasnt even questioned.
In saying that I have well and truly lost faith in the reliability of any new Land Rover product and wont touch anything still under warranty except the Defender.
Well, it's been an interesting week.
Land Rover mechanical team at Cannington were unable to find anything wrong with the turbo, and instead diagnosed a split intercooler hose as the problem. I expressed my concern about the difference to the original diagnosis by the RAC mechanic, and they kindly offered to run further checks.
A couple of days later, I was again contacted and assured that they were unable to find any problem with the turbo, that the intercooler hose had been replaced and all appeared to be normal after extensive testing and on-road verification.
Base costs to me were a $114 hose and $360 labour, and all up it cost me about $527.
The vehicle should be on its way home to me soon.
Let's hope all is well :)
What did they say about the turbo excessive free play and binding?
If the turbo is really ok I would buying a full set of silicone hoses from Roverlord Off Road Spares (Mario on here)
That's why I do my own maintenance.
I would go with the split intercooler hose usually the one on the LHS 90 deg bend into inlet.
Common to split but very hard to see actual split in hose on vehicle.
I have 2 Defenders and both split hose @ 60K.
I also rang NRMA who Land Rover us for there assistance program local mechanic sends apprentice out with roll of
duct tape to tape it up after I already told them they would need a tow truck.
Land Rover and good will are fine but when I did my engine they wanted to split the bill.
There quote was $30K repaired myself for under $5K.
Get yourself a cheap code reader and keep in the glove box.
Mark
I'm reminded of my assessment of a faulty turbo on my then new '99 TD5 that had a performance issue. I found that the air side shaft felt loose and could be moved to cause the blades to touch the housing. However that turbo's shaft floated under oil pressure and the movement was normal, unlike a shaft that runs on ball-bearings.Quote:
Originally Posted by rar110
The performance issue was found 30K kms later to be a faulty MAF when swapped with one from another TD5.
I remember my new Garrett GT2560 turbo (ball bearing) had movement,
that was like you say taken up by oil pressure. But not enough to hit the sides.
Also I carry silicone repair tape in the car to fix split hose problems temporarily.
Hey Weeds, what caused your failure to proceed in Jervis Bay?Quote:
Originally Posted by weeds
Sounds like great that RACQ. ...often it's not possible to transport vehicles fully loaded. Do you know which company they use?.
They said they could not find anything at all out of spec or irregular with the turbo.Quote:
Originally Posted by rar110
Only a month or so before the trip I tried to have some silicone turbo hoses installed, but unfortunately I had been mistakenly sent a set for the 2.4 engine not the 2.2, and when I returned them I found there were none available at the time for my 2.2.
What a bugger that it turns out the failed part is one that I wanted to replace earlier [bigsad].
Thanks for the contact advice for the hoses.
heres the thing with run in turbos.
when you shut em down and the thin synthetic oil is all out of the bearings if you push on and then try to turn the impeller its going to stick. (this is how your average joe does a turbo check rip off the inlet poke your fingers in there and try to wiggle it around and spin it.
90% of turbos are bush bearings and they rely on the oil pressure to turn them from bushes to bearings, no oil pressure no bearing, no bearing no easy spin.
for those playing at home, a wiggle check will get you some info, but its no longer enough back in the day when we were using tar as engine oil you could get away with it and get pretty close. if you do a wiggle check turn the thing a couple of times to make sure its not actually stuck and then disable the engines ability to start and with the inlet hose off crank it on the starter till the oil pressure come up (or start it, get oil pressure, stop it and then crank it on the starter without starting it while you watch the turbo).
IF it turns over swiftly and well with just the engine acting as a pump you're probably going to be ok.