Photo of battery attached. The caps are just screw fittings. Thanks for the vote of confidence too Tim. [bigsmile1] Could have gone either way.Quote:
Originally Posted by drivesafe
Andrew
Attachment 147179
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Photo of battery attached. The caps are just screw fittings. Thanks for the vote of confidence too Tim. [bigsmile1] Could have gone either way.Quote:
Originally Posted by drivesafe
Andrew
Attachment 147179
Has anyone installed a Lithium battery in 2.2 Defender?
I'm interested in a lithium 100amp as a second / fridge battery, but also wondering it would be worth investing in one as main crank battery too? Weight savings and durability are attractive.
Any advice much appreciated.
They certainly look promising, but are still pricey.
I've just got one of these from Deep Cycle Systems. 100ah and good for 1000cca. I've put it in a Thunder battery box for camping but thinking of chucking it in the 130 and giving it a go as the main battery.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...39250cfa9c.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Zeros
Hi,
Will it charge correctly when used as a cranking battery in a Defender?
Cheers
The DCS ones take a charge voltage of anything from 14.0 to 14.8v. I regularly see the charging voltage in my Puma up in the 14's so would be fine I think.Quote:
Originally Posted by austastar
Just be aware that because lithium batteries have a constant settled voltage of around 13.2v until they are down to 20% SoC, whereas lead acid batteries have a settled voltage of 12.7v at 100% SoC and this voltage reduces as the SoC falls.
So you must separate a lithium battery from a lead acid as soon as the ignition is turned off.
A standard VSR isolator will not work, and using an ignition activated relay means the lithium battery is linked while you are cranking the motor.
This sudden high current discharge should not be a problem for most lithium’s but you must make sure the cabling between the batteries is suitable and safe.
I have not tested a lithium battery in a STOP/START vehicle yet, so I do not know if there is any potential issues.
Why spend so much money on a lithium starter battery when a standard lead acid battery will do the job admirably and still last 4-5 years?
Lithium batteries are attractive for the significant weight saving and longevity they promise. Twice the price for at least twice the lifetime, excellent weight saving and full discharge capability sounds good to me, but I’m no auto electrician.
Thanks for the advice Drivesafe. Obviously as a deep cycle battery, lithium is attractive, but it clearly needs special isolation from a standard starter battery. DCS advertises both a 2 x 75ah lithium battery system and a DC-DC charger / isolator. Are you able to offer your opinion of these? Will Traxide offer something similar? Or do you see this set up as still too unproven?
Would it it be possible to have a 75ah lithium starter battery + 100ah fridge /accessories battery using a DC-DC charger/regulator? Would this negate the problem between the two types of batteries and be reliable for remote area travel?
Any advice much appreciated
Thanks Beery, is this set up hard wired into your vehicle or via lighter socket? Do you have any concern about crossing two types of batteries / potential discharge?Quote:
Originally Posted by Beery
On a side note, I’ve had the same battery box (Engel branded) for a few years now, but the brain in the box has gone haywire. The display jumps all over the place from saying the battery is fully charged to alarm and actually shutting down saying low battery! Very frustrating. ...could this be due to the battery failing or is it a fault in the box? The battery still takes and holds charge from solar panels, keeping fridge running over at least 4 days, despite the box saying the battery is empty!
