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Thread: 300tdi timing issues

  1. #1
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    300tdi timing issues

    Hi

    I have just replaced the injector pump on my 96 Defender 130.

    The original was leaking so I bought a second hand one, put all new seals in it and then had an injection specilist test, recalibrate and fit the drive hub as it did not come with one.
    I now can't get the car started, it seems to have pleanty of diesel at the injectors when I slack off the pipe nuts a turn.

    I placed the timing pin in up through the bell housing to the flywheel and inserted the pin into the front of the pump and did the swap over.

    I have found there are 2 slots on the flywheel 1 is approx 5mm wide and the other approx 8mm I believe I may have inserted the pin in the 8mm slot, putting the timing out a fair bit.

    If I now try to time it using the 5mm slot I can not put the pin in the front of the pump as the hole in the pully for it to slot into is approx 180 degrees out from where it should be.

    I would say the pully and belt have been timed wrong but the car was running ok (a bit smokey but ok) before I swapped over the pumps.

    I would apreciate any thoughts / ideas / advice anyone can offer.

    Cheers
    Phil

  2. #2
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    another full rotation of the crank should bring the pump into alignment. You would currently be at the top of the exhaust stroke.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  3. #3
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    Thank you
    Yes I am a prize plonker, I have just been out in the dark rotating the engine once more and hay presto it all lines up! I am so embarresed.
    The engine will still not start but at least I now know it is times correctly.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by philandmickey View Post
    Thank you
    Yes I am a prize plonker, I have just been out in the dark rotating the engine once more and hay presto it all lines up! I am so embarresed.
    The engine will still not start but at least I now know it is times correctly.
    This is going to sound bleedingly obvious .. but the solenoid wire has been reconnected properly again!
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  5. #5
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    Hi
    Yes stop solanoid connected, I have also swapped it over with the original pump in case it was faulty.

  6. #6
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    When you removed the pump, did you secure the the pump pulley to the timing case using the special tool?.
    If not, the belt may have jumped a tooth putting the crank/ cam timing out.
    You really should remove the front cover and check timing.

    If you remove the rocker cover and watch #1 in/ex valves as you rotate the crank, the rockers should go relaxed as the crank reaches tdc and fuel should dribble out of the injector union.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  7. #7
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    Or... the "specialist" put the hub on in the wrong location. Try and see if #1 squirts right as the hub passes the slot to verify it was set for the right cylinder. If that look good then check the timing with a dial gauge.

  8. #8
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    Hi
    Yes all correct timing tools used.

    I eventually had to give in and refit the original pump.
    The car started instantly, so the problem definitely lies with the new pump, I am pretty sure the hub has been fitted incorrectly,

    So the pump has been returned to the specialist along with printed instructions on how to time it and fit the hub!
    Hopefully this will sort it.

    Thank you everyone for your advice I will keep you posted of how I go with it.
    Phil

  9. #9
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    He has mistimed it, local market mech pump vs overseas strict emissions electronic pump. Not uncommon as it has happened to us. Apparently the firing order for a fly by wire 300tdi pump reverses 2 of the cylinders, and as such their pipework is totally different from the pump to the injectors compared to the non electronic pumps. At least that was the reason we were given for the mix up..
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    He has mistimed it, local market mech pump vs overseas strict emissions electronic pump. Not uncommon as it has happened to us. Apparently the firing order for a fly by wire 300tdi pump reverses 2 of the cylinders, and as such their pipework is totally different from the pump to the injectors compared to the non electronic pumps. At least that was the reason we were given for the mix up..
    supportable, have seen this twice when you buy fly by wire injector lines in place of ours....... trying to get the right pipe from the right injector to the right valve on the IP needs a touch of massaging.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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