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Thread: DC/DC charger under drivers seat

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by clintooo View Post
    It will also isolates my house, plus I'll put a small solar panel on the roof and use this as a regulator.

    I also figured that the battery management within the DC/DC may be better than what is located within the battery?? Is the internal BMS within the battery just to balance the load between the cells??
    Hi Clint and I am not a fan of DC/DC devices with built in solar regulators.


    While they can be useful if you are just connecting unregulated solar panels once in a blue moon, when you go off camping, but when the solar panel is a permanent fixture, then using a DC/DC device as the solar regulator is a waste of an energy resource.


    If you have a separate solar regulator, you now have an additional energy source for recharging your battery, which means a shorter recharge time and more charge gained in a given drive time.


    As to a lithium battery BMS, the BMS can do a number of different chores and can do them differently from brand of BMS to another.


    Most will have some effect on cell balancing, but will also control shut-down voltage levels and even over voltage protection.


    It all comes down to the brand of battery you have.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatnold View Post
    Lithium got cranking??? i didn't think that was advised.
    There are a number of lithium batteries being marketed as direct replacements for lead acid cranking batteries, but care must be taken when choosing a lithium battery as a cranking battery.

    You must make sure that a specific lithium battery is designed to be used as a cranking battery.

    It's just like making sure the lead acid battery you may be considering as a cranking battery, is just that, a cranking battery and not a deep cycle battery.

  3. #13
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    Lithium batteries

    Quote Originally Posted by fatnold View Post
    Lithium got cranking??? i didn't think that was advised.
    All LFP batts eg everdrive & Fusion i've seen advise not suitable for crank or winch work with about 100 amp max output. Their main purpose is deep cycle batt purpose. not for cranking eg
    https://batterybusiness.com.au/store...0-lithium-batt fusion max 50amp. My Enerdrive BTec has 100Amp max but rated for 450amp pulse 1 sec discharge. It is not a crank batt that can deliver 500 plus amps

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi Clint and I am not a fan of DC/DC devices with built in solar regulators.


    While they can be useful if you are just connecting unregulated solar panels once in a blue moon, when you go off camping, but when the solar panel is a permanent fixture, then using a DC/DC device as the solar regulator is a waste of an energy resource.


    If you have a separate solar regulator, you now have an additional energy source for recharging your battery, which means a shorter recharge time and more charge gained in a given drive time.


    .
    thanks,

    By this you mean, that the DC charger will only use solar or the alternator at anyone time. So in my case I'm limited to the 25amps I can put into my battery. whereas, if I had a separate solar regulator, I could put in 25 amps from the alternator and however many amps I can get in from my solar regulator.

    It is not that the regulator on the DC charger is inferior a dedicated solar one (type of regulator aside).

    cheers

  5. #15
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    also one other question if I may.

    When looking at the wiring diagram for the DCDC for a solar install (it is a redarc 1225d).

    The instructions have the one ground wire to be grounded to the chassis. I would then need to ground my house battery to the chassis too and the roof solar??. is this a problem grounding the lithium battery to the chassis along with the lead acid cranking battery is it ok if they both have a common ground? Similarly unregulated solar? or does the voltage difference not effect things on the grounding.

    I was going to wire my house battery directly to a fused distribution panel. this has the bus bar for negatives which I will wire everything back to, so I wasnt going to use the chassis as a ground for anything.

    cheers

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by clintooo View Post
    thanks,

    By this you mean, that the DC charger will only use solar or the alternator at anyone time. So in my case I'm limited to the 25amps I can put into my battery. whereas, if I had a separate solar regulator, I could put in 25 amps from the alternator and however many amps I can get in from my solar regulator.

    It is not that the regulator on the DC charger is inferior a dedicated solar one (type of regulator aside).

    cheers
    From what I understand, as a non-expert, your alternator could be chugging out 50 or 60+ amps at times, but the DC-DC would limit that to 25 Amps to the battery. The solar regulators I have used usually limit output to about 10 amps.
    In my case, the solar panel on the roof goes through a 10Amp regulator to the starting battery, while the alternator goes separately, also to the starting battery, as designed by the manufacturer. Earths are also separate.
    No conflict that way.
    2009 Defender 110 2.4. ARB bulbar, Ironman winch, Safari snorkel, Steinbauer chip, AP HD clutch, Lightforce spots, larger tank, Off Road Systems drawer, Traxide 160 controller, Tekonsha brakes, Mulgo seat runners, Uniden UHF, Nuggetstuff seat corners, breathers, Polaris GPS.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by clintooo View Post
    thanks,

    By this you mean, that the DC charger will only use solar or the alternator at anyone time. So in my case I'm limited to the 25amps I can put into my battery. whereas, if I had a separate solar regulator, I could put in 25 amps from the alternator and however many amps I can get in from my solar regulator.

    It is not that the regulator on the DC charger is inferior a dedicated solar one (type of regulator aside).

    cheers
    Correct

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by clintooo View Post
    also one other question if I may.

    When looking at the wiring diagram for the DCDC for a solar install (it is a redarc 1225d).

    The instructions have the one ground wire to be grounded to the chassis. I would then need to ground my house battery to the chassis too and the roof solar??. is this a problem grounding the lithium battery to the chassis along with the lead acid cranking battery is it ok if they both have a common ground? Similarly unregulated solar? or does the voltage difference not effect things on the grounding.

    I was going to wire my house battery directly to a fused distribution panel. this has the bus bar for negatives which I will wire everything back to, so I wasnt going to use the chassis as a ground for anything.

    cheers
    All earth returns, or the negative ( - ) cables can be taken to a common point.

    This includes when you have a 12v and 24v system.

    All positive ( + ) cabling must be kept separate.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    All earth returns, or the negative ( - ) cables can be taken to a common point.

    This includes when you have a 12v and 24v system.

    All positive ( + ) cabling must be kept separate.

    Thanks . it sort of makes sense. and probably makes it easier for me.

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