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Thread: DC/DC charger under drivers seat

  1. #1
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    DC/DC charger under drivers seat

    I'm in the process of re-wiring the car, and doing an exbox install. I'm going to swap out my house battery with a lithium. So I have a redarc 1225 DCDC charger (25Amp). I was planning on mounting that under the drivers seat, in the box.

    Does anyone see any issue with that, will it get too hot? I was going to run some dynamat in the box to try and keep the heat down (and may wrap the exhaust if I need to). I could also put a vent on the lid. The charger doesnt have a great deal of cooling fins, so I wasnt sure how hot they get.

    Has anyone mounted one there?

    Cheers

    Clint

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by clintooo View Post
    I'm in the process of re-wiring the car, and doing an exbox install. I'm going to swap out my house battery with a lithium. So I have a redarc 1225 DCDC charger (25Amp). I was planning on mounting that under the drivers seat, in the box.

    Does anyone see any issue with that, will it get too hot? I was going to run some dynamat in the box to try and keep the heat down (and may wrap the exhaust if I need to). I could also put a vent on the lid. The charger doesnt have a great deal of cooling fins, so I wasnt sure how hot they get.

    Has anyone mounted one there?

    Cheers

    Clint
    I put mine in the ex-box. Put dynamat under the ex-box first. The ex-box can get pretty hot

  3. #3
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    cheers

    yeh have run dynamat in the exbox on the base.

    I just dont think I will have enough space in there to include the DC/DC charger in there with my fuse block and the other wiring.

    But I figure if it isnt over heating in your exbox, then under the seat should be ok.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by clintooo View Post
    cheers

    yeh have run dynamat in the exbox on the base.

    I just dont think I will have enough space in there to include the DC/DC charger in there with my fuse block and the other wiring.

    But I figure if it isnt over heating in your exbox, then under the seat should be ok.
    I bolted the charger to the lid

  5. #5
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    OK, I'll bite Why do you need a DC-DC charger to charge a (presumably stand alone with integrated management, especially charging current limiting electronics) 12 volt Lithium battery ? Your avatar pic seems to show a non ECU controlled alternator Defender so why the DC-DC charger ?

    Deano
    1966 SIIA SWB petrol......... 1973 SIII LWB wagon diesel
    1986 Range Rover 'classic'.. 1999 Range Rover P38a
    1994 Defender 110 Wagon.. 1995 Defender 130 Ute
    1996 Discovery 1 300 TDi
    2004 Discovery D2a Td5...... 2002 Discovery 2 V8 (current)

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeanoH View Post
    OK, I'll bite Why do you need a DC-DC charger to charge a (presumably stand alone with integrated management, especially charging current limiting electronics) 12 volt Lithium battery ? Your avatar pic seems to show a non ECU controlled alternator Defender so why the DC-DC charger ?

    Deano
    Thought lithium’s need a higher charging voltage 14 + volts. Didn’t think defers alternator went above 14v

    2000 110 Hardtop

  7. #7
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    Maybe so but my understanding is that the 'drop in' 12 volt Lithium battery replacements had integrated electronics that compensated for the different lead acid charging voltage/current values so that they were a 'plug and play' replacement.

    Deano
    1966 SIIA SWB petrol......... 1973 SIII LWB wagon diesel
    1986 Range Rover 'classic'.. 1999 Range Rover P38a
    1994 Defender 110 Wagon.. 1995 Defender 130 Ute
    1996 Discovery 1 300 TDi
    2004 Discovery D2a Td5...... 2002 Discovery 2 V8 (current)

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeanoH View Post
    Maybe so but my understanding is that the 'drop in' 12 volt Lithium battery replacements had integrated electronics that compensated for the different lead acid charging voltage/current values so that they were a 'plug and play' replacement.

    Deano
    The catch word is “REPLACEMENT”.

    If you were changing the cranking battery, then yes, a lithium can be a direct replacement, as long as it is the only battery in the system.

    Clint intends to use his lithium as a house battery.

    Lithium and lead acid batteries can not co-exist.

    Once the motor is off. A lithium battery will simply back discharge into the cranking battery.

    You can use a simple ignition controlled relay to separate the batteries when the motor is turned off, but this has other problems.

    The use of a DC/DC device solves all the issues and charges the lithium with the correct charging voltages.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    The catch word is “REPLACEMENT”.

    If you were changing the cranking battery, then yes, a lithium can be a direct replacement, as long as it is the only battery in the system.

    Clint intends to use his lithium as a house battery.

    Lithium and lead acid batteries can not co-exist.

    Once the motor is off. A lithium battery will simply back discharge into the cranking battery.

    You can use a simple ignition controlled relay to separate the batteries when the motor is turned off, but this has other problems.

    The use of a DC/DC device solves all the issues and charges the lithium with the correct charging voltages.
    I couldn't quite articulate my understanding of electronics that well

    It will also isolates my house, plus I'll put a small solar panel on the roof and use this as a regulator.

    I also figured that the battery management within the DC/DC may be better than what is located within the battery?? Is the internal BMS within the battery just to balance the load between the cells??

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    The catch word is “REPLACEMENT”.

    If you were changing the cranking battery, then yes, a lithium can be a direct replacement, as long as it is the only battery in the system.
    .
    Lithium got cranking??? i didn't think that was advised.

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