A question for Defender knowlegable people

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Originally Posted by 86mud

You can shave up to 12 mm off the bottom of the Salisbury quite easily using an angle grinder (there are other options allowing for the removal of up 25mm, however welding is then required).

You will need an aftermarket diff cover. - ARB make a good one which has it's own drain plug.

I have done this mod (basic shave)

No hang ups in 10 years.

Momentum is the key.

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What's the difference in height between the Salisbury and the P38 diffs and would a "Pegged" P38 diff be just as strong as the Salisbury ??

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Originally Posted by Robmacca

What's the difference in height between the Salisbury and the P38 diffs and would a "Pegged" P38 diff be just as strong as the Salisbury ??

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The P38 will never be anywhere near as strong, it's all about tooth engagement.
A hypoid diff has more tooth engagement because of the pinion offset.
The more offset, theoretically the stronger the centre for that size CWP but....
The more offset, the more losses and therefore heat generated due to friction.
Swings and Merry-go-Rounds.
You also need a much more robust diff oil to cope with the tooth pressure.

I think it's roughly 20-25mm or so difference in height between the Sals and Rover housings, my concrete pad wasn't overly flat!

Having said the above another member has ditched his Maxi Drive Sals in his very custom and engineered 110 for a fully built Rover housing.
It'll have HD Ashcroft CWP, be pegged, and be fully, properly trussed and braced.
The trusses have been bent and pressed.
It'll be one strong rear end.

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Originally Posted by rick130

Having said the above another member has ditched his Maxi Drive Sals in his very custom and engineered 110 for a fully built Rover housing.
It'll have HD Ashcroft CWP, be pegged, and be fully, properly trussed and braced.
The trusses have been bent and pressed.
It'll be one strong rear end.

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He’s not the only one.... I know of another fella doing something similar...