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Thread: Need advice buying a puma

  1. #11
    Join Date
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    Hi

    All the clunks can be fixed.
    In rough order.
    You must check the transfer adapter.
    Check clutch.
    Then do the drive flanges. New aftermarket all around.
    Then put an ATB in the center diff. Maybe do with centre shaft if funds are around.

    That should get rid of most of the clunks, it did with mine. A 2012 PUMA.

    Maybe ATB or cross axle diff locks (peg if you can) if money allows. Then axles and CV's

    They can drive very well, as the previous post said it can cost you up to 10k to make 'em drive
    like a normal 4wd.

    Clive

  2. #12
    Johughes Guest
    Thanks clive

    But do i want it to drive like a normal 4wd?
    I dont mind it being a bit rough and clunky, its part of it i think
    Just dont want things to start breaking
    Sort of if its not broke dont fix it, if thats the way its ment to be and i keeps going then thats fine by me

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johughes View Post
    Thanks clive

    But do i want it to drive like a normal 4wd?
    I dont mind it being a bit rough and clunky, its part of it i think
    Just dont want things to start breaking
    Sort of if its not broke dont fix it, if thats the way its ment to be and i keeps going then thats fine by me
    As all have said before, those upgrades will make it drive like the defender should be with all the charm still there.

    Having done the A-ball joint, rebuilt TC and done adaptor shaft on my 2011 2.4 with 93k on it I can tell you it still feels plenty puma... Clutch is next on my list! (The earlier pumas had clutches with terrible springs)

    Flanges are also easy to check so worth the effort and any decent mechanic (advise taking to a Defender specialist) will tell you of any lash in the diffs.

    Best bet is get it inspected by a specialist and they will tell you how much of the clunk is defender and how much is wear and tear. The adaptor shaft is one to fix as if it goes it will leave you stranded. A-frame also a good idea as will wear more rapidly over time.

    I know my order of operations was A-frame, adaptor shaft and TC rebuild, which helped a lot as I had a heap of backlash.

    Flanges, ATB, clutch and diffs will then turn it into a dream!

  4. #14
    DiscoMick Guest
    Mine has a HD clutch because the springs started rattling at idle.
    I should do the flanges.
    It's a clunky transmission designed to cope with being flogged to death in Transit vans which get driven like they were stolen all around the world and generally abused and neglected.
    It's not meant to be a sports car.
    If you slow the changes down a bit and make sure the clutch is out before pressing the go pedal, it should last a long time. Drive it like a truck, not a car.

  5. #15
    SJM Guest
    I've recently bought a 2.4 Puma with 70,000km...

    Clutch rattles on idle but only intermittently. I understand this is the springs rattling... My question - are Defender owners replacing this because it's purely annoying or is it a danger that it's making this noise?

    I.e. Can I keep the same rattley clutch for the life of it even though it rattles with no danger? The noise doesn't really bother me...

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by SJM View Post
    I've recently bought a 2.4 Puma with 70,000km...

    Clutch rattles on idle but only intermittently. I understand this is the springs rattling... My question - are Defender owners replacing this because it's purely annoying or is it a danger that it's making this noise?

    I.e. Can I keep the same rattley clutch for the life of it even though it rattles with no danger? The noise doesn't really bother me...
    The rattle is the beginnings of springs loose in the centre, and they will eventually fall out and cause the clutch to be inoperative. It's a lottery.

    Jc
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  7. #17
    DiscoMick Guest
    When I did mine it was a choice of an LR upgraded clutch for about $1600 or an AP HD clutch for about $2400. I went AP.
    You don't want the clutch to fail in the middle of nowhere.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoMick View Post
    When I did mine it was a choice of an LR upgraded clutch for about $1600 or an AP HD clutch for about $2400. I went AP.
    You don't want the clutch to fail in the middle of nowhere.
    .... I sincerely hope they were prices inclusive of fitting???😟😟😟
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
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    AU
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    Hi yes that's normal

    Land Rover has low standards.

    Welcome to aulro

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
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    You can do many mods to improve the build quality.
    The sky is the limit.


    If you dont want to spend money, just change the gears slowly. Use momentum to take up the slacks in the drive train.....

    Cheers

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