Need advice buying a puma

2.4 Puma with over 170.000 kms and there is no clunking on changing gears. The clutch has been changed owing to spring rattles. Still on the original adapter shaft. I find the Puma engine/gearbox set up extremely smooth and relaxing. I also have a 2011 Puma and that is the same. First gear is very low in the Puma and some people surge it when taking off from traffic lights. I also have a 110 200 tdi that I have owned from 1996 and this is also smooth to drive but the clutch is heavier than the Puma clutch. There is no clunking on changing gear in this either. The change from high to low on the Puma is very smooth and easy to use, much more user friendly than the tdi.
Worn bushings could be a factor in the equation.

As an addition to the above. When you change gear in a Puma, or any 110/90 for that matter, as well as using the clutch and the gearstick a lot of other components come into play. Don't forget that there are two fairly long propshafts beneath you. At the end of these you have the couplings, four in total. Changing gear in the 90/110/Defender is getting all of this gear plus your normal clutch/gearstick to work in unison. Usually anyone coming from a "normal" car to this setup comes off the clutch very quickly which results in all of the above components jerking together. That is why I NEVER let anyone drive any of mine. I think it is just a matter of getting acclimatised to the setup and coming off the clutch a little easier than in a "normal" car. Too slow and you will get problems too.
I am not trying to teach any of the initiated on this forum in how to drive but these are just my thoughts on why I don't get any clunks. There is scope for wear in these myriad of components and that will contribute some slack to the system making it hard to get a clean smooth change. Any dealer that tells you that clunks are normal to the 90/110/Defender has never owned and driven one.

Yep, slow down the change and drive it like a truck, not a racing car.

2008 Puma 2.4
Bought it with 75000kms

It clunked changing gears, it took 3-4 weeks of driving it to get it from a clunk to a thud.

My secret is in the upshift....accelerate - foot completely off gas pedal - depress clutch - change up- release clutch fully with foot off gas pedal - begin to accelerate again....if you add fuel as you let the clutch out you will get an unholy clunk...it takes practice.

I replaced all of the drive flanges, inspected the play in the transmission, transfer case and both diffs. It still thudded. I got used to it and started to appreciate it.

Then it developed a knock...this wasn't related to the drivetrain as it would happen in neutral while rolling.

The knock was a worn out trailing arm bushing. I replaced every bushing on the vehicle.

Now it just thuds...it's got a lot of joints from the crankshaft to the tyres....10 or 12 by my count. 1mm of play in each adds up to 12mm...that's thud territory.

Yes, that's my experience. Foot must be totally off the gas pedal until the clutch is out. Changes are slower, but more deliberate. Its not a racing car.

I had no real need to do any of this , but
after
BAS 150 hp tune (yes it helps)
Ashcroft output shaft
Ashcroft 3 * LSD Diffs
Heavy Duty rear axles and flanges

No clunks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AndyG

I had no real need to do any of this , but
after
BAS 150 hp tune (yes it helps)
Ashcroft output shaft
Ashcroft 3 * LSD Diffs
Heavy Duty rear axles and flanges

No clunks

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Yes i've done the same (if you mean ATB diffs) but with the 170 tune so bigger intercooler. While the rear axles and flanges helped the driveline slack a lot, the biggest single difference was the centre ATB diff, cured all driveline issues.

I think the puma different are actually pretty good.
When I installed the Ashcroft rear diff, I discover my pump factory diff was set up perfectly at 5 thou
Pattern is also spot on....