I had a similar starting issue recently on my 300tdi. I replaced the filter, cleaned the sedimentor etc then was checking the fuel lines and found the top of the fuel pump on mine is held on with a screw and the screw was loose. Worth a check.
Hey,
I am under the impression that I have a fuel supply issue. I'll start at the start...
I was doing a regular service and when bleeding the fuel system after changing the filter I noticed that some of the aluminium thread that the bleed screw screws into was on the bolt... This obviously started letting air into the fuel system. Just to get me driving again I placed some thread tape around the bolt and screwed it back in. Since this the engine was very hard to start and when it did it required significant revving to get the engine running again. Once going it drives okay but seems a little underpowered at higher revs.
Since then I have replaced the entire fuel filter housing and the fuel filter again (as well as a new bleed screw) however I still have the same issue. Once the engine is running if I open the bleeder screw no fuel comes out and nothing comes out if I try to pump manually from the lift pump.
I am of the assumption that it may be the fuel lift pump however I'm not sure why it would have failed at the exact moment I changed the filter and damaged the fuel bleed screw...
I have a new Delphi lift pump and intend to replace it when I get home from work tomorrow. I also have a new fuel sedimenter on the way from Bearmach that I will install in place of the old one which I believe has been on the car for 420,000km.
If anyone has any opinions on what the issue may be as well as any advice from here I would love to hear it!
Thanks in advance!
Dave
Edit: I have done a lot of reading and watched a fair few videos over the past few weeks and am hopeful that my diagnosis is correct...
I had a similar starting issue recently on my 300tdi. I replaced the filter, cleaned the sedimentor etc then was checking the fuel lines and found the top of the fuel pump on mine is held on with a screw and the screw was loose. Worth a check.
easy..
when you had the air in the system its over stroked the pump (or youve overstroked it when manually priming) and upset the diaphragm.
the engine is running on the pump thats in the body of the Injector pump which is not intended to draw fuel (but can because its positive displacement).
skip the manual pump leave the dead pump on it bolt a facet pump to the guard route the hoses to it and power it up off of the IP solenoid. one auto priming TDI....
IF you want to get fancy... put some clear hose on the suction side of the pump, so you can see whats going on. its also worth putting some on the return side of the IP. use mower fuel hose for the injector joining lines and a small section in the injector to IP return hose.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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I know you said that you have checked out a few you tube videos but have you checked out Mike’s channel? YouTube
I have found his advice very useful.
Thanks everyone for your help, I appreciate it.
Dave, when you speak of over stoking the lift pump, is there something I should watch out for when I put the new one in to make sure it doesn’t happen again or is it just a common fault of this particular pump?
Cheers
Okay turns out the new lift pump isn’t the same as the old, the lever is 10mm longer. Great.
I’m off to buy a facet pump now and will be going down that path.
happens on all of the pumps of that style,
lets say the max movement is 2 inches. normal travel when running on the engine cam with no restriction to flow is 1 inch and 3/4 of an inch with nominal minimal resistance (all lines primed, engine not cranking 0 pressure in the IP)
when you turn the engine over the pump strokes until the pressure holds the diaphragm, as the pressure drops the diaphragm moves back and the cam picks it up again. it gets to a balance point and only ever moves so far.
When you crack open a fuel line if the cam is holding the diaphragm out and you turn the engine over as theres no resistance the diphragm moves further until the arm hits the cam again. in this instance if the diaphragm has gotten settled and aged it just gives up and the pump stops working.
When you operate the hand primer its designed to travel even further for 2 reasons.
1. it takes less pumps to prime the filter
2. if you happen to stop with the cam in the full lift position you can still get some movement to allow you to prime.
the extra travel puts even more stress on the diaphragm.
The arm being longer overall doesnt really matter so long as the bend and running positions are the same. the extra length just means it picks up earlier and strokes slower.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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