Page 5 of 6 FirstFirst ... 3456 LastLast
Results 41 to 50 of 51

Thread: 300Tdi Essential Mods?

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,215
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by W&KO View Post
    I always thought the issue with water pumps is they corrode which leads to them snapping.
    nope, usually the bolts go and the 3 long ones weep, loose clamp on the P gasket, the seal fails or the tensioner gets a wobble up and takes out the bearing.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,652
    Total Downloaded
    0
    If starting off with vehicle history unknown and want piece of mind, here is my list for essential mods for reliability in a 300Tdi

    (This is based on my experience of owning a 1998 300Tdi 130 for 10 years):


    • Service all fluids and change all filters plus clean out sediment bowl
    • Replace entire cooling system including fan hub, thermostat, radiator cap (plus head tank if still the black one), radiator, water pump, p gasket (and three long bolts), all hoses (use OEM parts)
    • Replace Fuel Lift Pump (once again OEM)
    • Replace Vacuum pump
    • Replace Timing belt, tensioner, fan belt and tensioner, plus bearing in idler and fan hub
    • Replace Alternator, starter motor
    • Straight through 2 & 3/4" exhaust (no mufflers)
    • Exhaust wrap from turbo to gearbox cross member
    • Replace suspension with decent springs and shocks plus all bushes (rubber), I run Dobinson springs, Koni Raid shocks and Poly Air bags in the rear springs.
    • Replace rear A frame ball joint
    • Replace all front bushes (rubber), tie rod ends, steering damper.
    • If running anything bigger then a 235 wide tyre - you will need to upgrade half shafts, drive flanges, CV's, then diff lockers.
    • run oil filled wheel bearings and check wheel bearing play regularly (I do this as I am running 285 wide tyres)
    • Rebuild brake calipers and replace pads, replace master cylinder, replace brake hoses with stainless braided
    • Then there is the matter of the clutch, throw out bearing and clutch fork
    • Replace all universal joints in both tail shafts


    I'm sure there are some mechanical wear and tear items that I have missed.

    As an example, my current fuel lift pump has lasted 10 years which has a lot of people surprised. Also has me worried so I am replacing it this weekend. I'll keep the old one as a spare.

    As another example. I have just replaced my alternator (100amp) the previous one lasted only 18 months. The bearing seized and nearly shredded the fan belt. I was lucky it did not happen far from home and I was able to limp home. The alternator was still producing current, but both internal bearings collapsed. I have had new bearings put in it and it is now a spare.

    Good luck
    Andrew
    1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
    1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    119
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Polly Bush or not??

    I have noticed a few of the rubber bushes are starting to perish, and in the general prep of our 130 we are weighing up the pros and cons of other all new OEM or all new polly bush - and if we go the polly bus route which brand?

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,652
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi Jay

    I'v always stayed away from polyurethane bushes. I find them too harsh. For a relatively stock vehicle doing overland touring (ie not rock climbing, dakar type events), rubber bushes are my choice.
    Andrew
    1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
    1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,675
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by jay_guess View Post
    I have noticed a few of the rubber bushes are starting to perish, and in the general prep of our 130 we are weighing up the pros and cons of other all new OEM or all new polly bush - and if we go the polly bus route which brand?
    When is your departure date?

    If the ride is still good them leave them in to just before you leave.

    If you choose to go the polly road than Super Pro seem to be the only brand to use, last time I research surprisingly super cheap where the cheapest. I brought a set but never fitted them, they went with the car when I sold it.

    Current defer I’ll stick with rubber.

  6. #46
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    577
    Total Downloaded
    0

    polyurethane crumble

    Quote Originally Posted by W&KO View Post
    When is your departure date?

    If the ride is still good them leave them in to just before you leave.

    If you choose to go the polly road than Super Pro seem to be the only brand to use, last time I research surprisingly super cheap where the cheapest. I brought a set but never fitted them, they went with the car when I sold it.

    Current defer I’ll stick with rubber.
    After a set of poly bushes disintegrated on a brisbane toowoomba brisbane trip have gone back to rubber. Didn't know shocker rubbers worked that hard but the clonking was pretty bad till we worked out what had happened. Rubber works well.

  7. #47
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    119
    Total Downloaded
    0
    It’s interesting that the feedback is stay OEM - Stay rubber. I thought there was a general consensus to go Polly?

    I will do a full vehicle inspection and make a judgment on what needs to be done now, and what can wait to be done on the road.

    Replacing the bushes myself will also allow me the opportunity to get to know the truck a little better.

    Are there any upgrades / modifications worth considering when replacing the bushes?
    Cheers,

    Jay

  8. #48
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Melrose SA
    Posts
    2,838
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Years ago I worked for Toyota and I remember an 80 series coming across the Tanami with a cracked front diff housing.
    The conclusion was the reason it failed was due to poly bushes not allowing enough flex.
    Stay rubber and stay genuine no cheap rubbish.
    That said I have no issue using super pro bushes on the rear axle mounts

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,203
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by jay_guess View Post
    It’s interesting that the feedback is stay OEM - Stay rubber. I thought there was a general consensus to go Polly?

    ....
    possibly at different times through the ages, the quality of poly has varied, or that the people that did use them used inferior quality/branded stuff, or unwittingly duped via fakes/copies .. or something.

    Other than where it can't be used, I won't replace rubber with rubber going from my previous experience.

    79 RRC, did 600+ K klms all up, basically 500K of which I did. I did this in it's first 10 or so years. A lot of it around central Aus, but obviously lots of highway use to get there too.
    First 2/3rds of those klms, it seemed that every year I had to change some rubber bush. steering damper lots(and partly due to oil), chassis end rear trailing arm bushes for sure every year.
    Radius arm bushes, at least twice in those first 2/3rds(ie, about 300k or so klms). Never the rear trailing arm axle end bushes tho. When I did finally pull them out they were fine.

    About 8 ish years or so after I got it, I was told of poly bushes, Nolathane to be exact .. got a set, fitted never thought anything of them other than suspension nice and tight again(for a '79 RRC!) and so less banging crashing suspension on bumpy roads.
    The drive out to Lake Eyre that spring 1994 was a joy by comparison to the previous trip on worn rubber bushes. Maybe no so much the ride, 79 RRC had soft coils, no sway bars .. so always rode nice .. just the drumming noise over corrugations mainly.
    Same set of polys saw the car to it's final mid 600K resting spot .. probably 200ish K klms, always checking for wear. Only wear item I did have to do twice in that time was the panhard bolts(and nuts). Enough slack/wear to cause a shimmy in the steering.
    Replace those two bolts and all good again, but never cracked chassis, or axles, or anything.

    Some say that polys are too harsh, and give less compliance or whatever .. but I'd found every time I changed the rubber for rubber, it just gave a more taught feel back to the suspension ands steering .. back to new so to speak.
    Never found the Nolathanes any different to when I replaced with rubber making it worth commenting about.

    On my D1 the bushes are pretty much fine, just the chassis trailing arm bushes seem to be worn a little .. I get a bit of bump steer/chatter into some bends, and I think the A frame ball joint is also just slightly worn.
    I've already changed the panhard rod bushes (and bolts) to nolathanes .. 60+k klms ago(sorry just checked 58K klms) no problems, no issues, no cracking .. even tho I've had a slight oil leak from various bits up front ... no softening or wearing out.
    Also changed the useless rubber shock bushes to polys too.
    Stupidly I first got some cheapies(some yellow rubbish from the UK off ebay) .. wouldn't fit properly, and they were more of a solid plastic, than a compliant poly .. zero compression to allow tightening the nuts.
    removed and got some softer grade versions(not yet Nolathanes). Same 58K klms .. no problems.
    Only thing I don't like about my D1 is that I think the ride is too hard, but a previous owner has fitted some aftermarket springs and shocks. They will also go.
    So my plan one day(when $s are readily available) I plan to do the lot.

    For you it's a hard question to ask, and get a satisfactory answer. Ask a group of folks the same question, chances are you'll get a split decision answer .. some swear by them, others swear about them!
    So it's a matter of guesswork for you to choose which way with the bushes.

    1/. you know rubber works, but due to it's inherent design, it has to wear out. Worn rubber bushes don't even look worn in every instance.

    2/. poly has an element of uncertainty about it. It divides the group when it comes to their experience. The split design types make it a doddle to fit and then subsequently replace them, compared to rubber bushes.
    They will cost you more than rubber too, and I think if they don't, then their quality could be sus .. hence the divided experience.

    But for me .. just the ease of fitting is the major attraction(not just my previous experience of longer life).

    When doing one set of the radius bushes on my RRC, I snapped dads vice. First couple came out with vice, but third one was a lot harder, I just assumed that it was just harder .. not impossible.
    Snapped vice, quickly went down to local mechanic, more of a motorbike mechanic, but did odd car work too he had a press and it struggled to move that third one. The last one came out easier again tho.
    Ever since that episode, this has always been a consideration when I look at when 'doing stuff' .. how easy is it to do/replace/repair.
    Think of it the same way you do spares. say a fuel pump, or whatever other spare that could break. You may well take a spare part, but is it realistically serviceable without special tools?


    The other mod I'm going to do to my D1 is cranked rear trailing arms. Back to the RRC days, the main rubber bush that caused me no end of grief was that chanssis end bush.. the large triangle shaped flange bush.
    Quite easy to change, but every year!!?? Then one day I noticed that when new, the angle of the arm was too acute for the shape of the rubber bush. That is, the large washer never sat flat on the rubber face.
    Looked into it, and later found that Rangie Spares made their own version that had a dish shaped rubber face, so when car sat and bush bolted up, the rubber mated evenly on the large washer face. Lasted a good two(maybe more) years.
    Eventually it also wore out tho(that's when I went to poly).
    So now(3 years back) with that past experience in mind) I searched for cranked trailing arms .. and because I'm now having that same worn bush issue as with the RRC all those years back.
    Cranked arms were got(about 3 years ago!) to be replaced with the new bushes tho.
    And yep .. I'm a bit of a procrastinator .. I think of doing things, get the things required to do them, then either forget to do them, or some other issue happens along the way(eg. like losing job, and zero income! )
    But no need to rush, unless something is desperately urgent.

    Because you're not swayed either way with the poly/rubber bush arguments, then I'd say go polys!
    Not because I reckon polys are better. You're better off experiencing this for yourself one way or the other.
    Nope! .. only say go ploy because fitment is much less painful. Do you have a press? I reckon you'd want one of those '20 ton' jobs(in reality about 8-10 ton) cheapie jobs.
    You could mock something up if you can fabricate stuff with a welder, but if you had to buy material .. just buy one! Needed to remove the rubber. But then thats is .. no need for it again.
    So the benefit of poly bushes in your instance is
    1/. the experience .. see if they work for ya.
    2/. fitment and subsequent removal is easier. If you don't like them and they begin to crack your chassis .. remove them replace with rubber.
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

  10. #50
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    577
    Total Downloaded
    0

    plastic disintegration.

    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    possibly at different times through the ages, the quality of poly has varied, or that the people that did use them used inferior quality/branded stuff, or unwittingly duped via fakes/copies .. or something.

    Other than where it can't be used, I won't replace rubber with rubber going from my previous experience.

    79 RRC, did 600+ K klms all up, basically 500K of which I did. I did this in it's first 10 or so years. A lot of it around central Aus, but obviously lots of highway use to get there too.
    First 2/3rds of those klms, it seemed that every year I had to change some rubber bush. steering damper lots(and partly due to oil), chassis end rear trailing arm bushes for sure every year.
    Radius arm bushes, at least twice in those first 2/3rds(ie, about 300k or so klms). Never the rear trailing arm axle end bushes tho. When I did finally pull them out they were fine.

    About 8 ish years or so after I got it, I was told of poly bushes, Nolathane to be exact .. got a set, fitted never thought anything of them other than suspension nice and tight again(for a '79 RRC!) and so less banging crashing suspension on bumpy roads.
    The drive out to Lake Eyre that spring 1994 was a joy by comparison to the previous trip on worn rubber bushes. Maybe no so much the ride, 79 RRC had soft coils, no sway bars .. so always rode nice .. just the drumming noise over corrugations mainly.
    Same set of polys saw the car to it's final mid 600K resting spot .. probably 200ish K klms, always checking for wear. Only wear item I did have to do twice in that time was the panhard bolts(and nuts). Enough slack/wear to cause a shimmy in the steering.
    Replace those two bolts and all good again, but never cracked chassis, or axles, or anything.

    Some say that polys are too harsh, and give less compliance or whatever .. but I'd found every time I changed the rubber for rubber, it just gave a more taught feel back to the suspension ands steering .. back to new so to speak.
    Never found the Nolathanes any different to when I replaced with rubber making it worth commenting about.

    On my D1 the bushes are pretty much fine, just the chassis trailing arm bushes seem to be worn a little .. I get a bit of bump steer/chatter into some bends, and I think the A frame ball joint is also just slightly worn.
    I've already changed the panhard rod bushes (and bolts) to nolathanes .. 60+k klms ago(sorry just checked 58K klms) no problems, no issues, no cracking .. even tho I've had a slight oil leak from various bits up front ... no softening or wearing out.
    Also changed the useless rubber shock bushes to polys too.
    Stupidly I first got some cheapies(some yellow rubbish from the UK off ebay) .. wouldn't fit properly, and they were more of a solid plastic, than a compliant poly .. zero compression to allow tightening the nuts.
    removed and got some softer grade versions(not yet Nolathanes). Same 58K klms .. no problems.
    Only thing I don't like about my D1 is that I think the ride is too hard, but a previous owner has fitted some aftermarket springs and shocks. They will also go.
    So my plan one day(when $s are readily available) I plan to do the lot.

    For you it's a hard question to ask, and get a satisfactory answer. Ask a group of folks the same question, chances are you'll get a split decision answer .. some swear by them, others swear about them!
    So it's a matter of guesswork for you to choose which way with the bushes.

    1/. you know rubber works, but due to it's inherent design, it has to wear out. Worn rubber bushes don't even look worn in every instance.

    2/. poly has an element of uncertainty about it. It divides the group when it comes to their experience. The split design types make it a doddle to fit and then subsequently replace them, compared to rubber bushes.
    They will cost you more than rubber too, and I think if they don't, then their quality could be sus .. hence the divided experience.

    But for me .. just the ease of fitting is the major attraction(not just my previous experience of longer life).

    When doing one set of the radius bushes on my RRC, I snapped dads vice. First couple came out with vice, but third one was a lot harder, I just assumed that it was just harder .. not impossible.
    Snapped vice, quickly went down to local mechanic, more of a motorbike mechanic, but did odd car work too he had a press and it struggled to move that third one. The last one came out easier again tho.
    Ever since that episode, this has always been a consideration when I look at when 'doing stuff' .. how easy is it to do/replace/repair.
    Think of it the same way you do spares. say a fuel pump, or whatever other spare that could break. You may well take a spare part, but is it realistically serviceable without special tools?


    The other mod I'm going to do to my D1 is cranked rear trailing arms. Back to the RRC days, the main rubber bush that caused me no end of grief was that chanssis end bush.. the large triangle shaped flange bush.
    Quite easy to change, but every year!!?? Then one day I noticed that when new, the angle of the arm was too acute for the shape of the rubber bush. That is, the large washer never sat flat on the rubber face.
    Looked into it, and later found that Rangie Spares made their own version that had a dish shaped rubber face, so when car sat and bush bolted up, the rubber mated evenly on the large washer face. Lasted a good two(maybe more) years.
    Eventually it also wore out tho(that's when I went to poly).
    So now(3 years back) with that past experience in mind) I searched for cranked trailing arms .. and because I'm now having that same worn bush issue as with the RRC all those years back.
    Cranked arms were got(about 3 years ago!) to be replaced with the new bushes tho.
    And yep .. I'm a bit of a procrastinator .. I think of doing things, get the things required to do them, then either forget to do them, or some other issue happens along the way(eg. like losing job, and zero income! )
    But no need to rush, unless something is desperately urgent.

    Because you're not swayed either way with the poly/rubber bush arguments, then I'd say go polys!
    Not because I reckon polys are better. You're better off experiencing this for yourself one way or the other.
    Nope! .. only say go ploy because fitment is much less painful. Do you have a press? I reckon you'd want one of those '20 ton' jobs(in reality about 8-10 ton) cheapie jobs.
    You could mock something up if you can fabricate stuff with a welder, but if you had to buy material .. just buy one! Needed to remove the rubber. But then thats is .. no need for it again.
    So the benefit of poly bushes in your instance is
    1/. the experience .. see if they work for ya.
    2/. fitment and subsequent removal is easier. If you don't like them and they begin to crack your chassis .. remove them replace with rubber.

    Yep accept all that. In my case the bushes all appeared serviceable on the monthly bits falling off check. By the time back in BNE they were crumbs on the chassis which at night finally showed where the noise was coming from. The no warning failure was more of a concern. they were the yellow ones if looking for a manufacturer. Rubber replacement from Repco off the shelf.

Page 5 of 6 FirstFirst ... 3456 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!