I have done similar on a plastic bumpered vehicle. I pulled the bumper off and made up a mounting bracket that sat just underneath it so when reinstalled the lights are bolted through the bumper to the bracket - about the only way you’re going to support them I think. As to what’s under a D2 bumper, no idea sorry, I think it’s one of those pull it apart and make it up as you go type deals.Quote:
Originally Posted by worane
Ditto all the comments on the Super Oscars. In particular the comments about using only the driving version rather than the spots, also the comments about the light temperature. We used to run 150 watt Tungsram globes in our rally cars and they stood out as being able to best tolerate all the vibration and shocks.
These days I find the whiter lights on my Disco give way too much reflection off road signs and are nowhere near as easy on the eyes to drive with, especially in rain and misty conditions.
Another thing about the Cibie lights is that they were made in France and at the time France had much more liberal lighting laws than other countries. This allowed then to manufacture much brighter lights. The lenses were lead crystal and controlled the beam exceptionally well which is why they were more expensive than most of the others. The knock offs from other manufacturers were nowhere near as good.
Cheers
David
After fitting the Traxide loom I put H4 Xenon Max bulbs in my headlights and I couldn’t be more impressed.
At the same time I also installed a pair of Fyrlyts (Nemesis 24V), and these are incredible, but having since moved from WA to QLD I have a lot less cause to turn them on. That includes road trips to Melbourne. But, I highly recommend you look at Fyrlyt’s products before you commit.