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I am able to get to 900 without the BAS tune.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1nando
Don't get me wrong it doesn't sit there all day but with your foot into it it will get there remarkably quickly.
I contacted BAS and it was common place apparently.
My EGT is pre turbo in the flange the turbo bolts to. it is also very accurate and responsive to temp change.
I will be installing one to my other 2.2 in the near future so I will be able to compare.
Mark
You can clearly see that mine was in the exhaust manifold.Quote:
Originally Posted by big harold
Again, even tuned never saw anywhere near 900. And yes I drive it hard and pushed it hard. In saying that I had done a bunch on mods that may have helped reduce my egts. Egr delete, cat delete, bigger cooler, removed best shield around turbo, provent 200 oil air separator etc. How much these helped I don't know but the recipe worked well for consistent egt temp control
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3304c84835.jpg
Hi Nando
Is that a 1/4" Tap into the exhaust manifold for the pyrometer?
Did you weld in any stiffening to accommodate the tap hole? or just drill through the manifold?
A Little bit concerned about creating a stress riser around the probe.
Where did you get your decat pipe from, if you don't mind me asking.
Thanks
Clive
Hi mate, please see my responses above next to your questions.Quote:
Originally Posted by clive22
I have my EGT probe in exactly the same place as yours.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1nando
I have 170 BAS tune including BAS intercooler.
Cat delete, heat shield removed along with centre muffler. The EGR is turned off in the tune.
My boost goes to about 25psi.
It is well documented that common rail diesels run higher EGT's
What is your boost reading??
What EGT gauge do you run Digital?
I can not remember 100% what my boost reading was but I think it was around 22-23psi.Quote:
Originally Posted by big harold
I had the egr off and also blanked. Blanking makes no difference really but I asked for this to be done.
The probe and display were purchased from Thermoguard industries. Ian supplies excellent australian made gear, he is also a world of knowledge.
I agree about modern diesels running hot. This problem in particular is what gave the zd30 it's "grenade" nick name, able to achieve 800-900 degrees in standard trim when pushed hard.
I am convinced that the high performance tunes that people get are what kill the puma engine. I know that the Alive cooler reduced intake temps dramatically in combination with the decat dump pipe, and obviously egts
Judging by our similar mods, the OP's issue and your input in regards to your readings I think the 170hp BAS tune may run a little hot when pushed in Australia. My personal opinion is that a mild tune with complementary mods can produce a very relaible and safe EGT result.
Out of curiosity Harold did you read my egt thread? Curious to get your input on the numbers documented and your thoughts
Also keen to know what your water temps are when running greater than 700 degree egts? Water temp will be lagging slightly behind the egt readings but should climb. In my thread I made reference to water temps at certain egt readings
I can get to 900 deg on the standard tune.
I will say that the EGT drops as fast as it rises.
The normal coolant temp is around 90 deg but climbs if high EGT's are present.
I could easily overheat if I wanted to.
As I said previous I now drive of the EGT temps.
Does your EGT rise and fall quickly.
My son has a dial EGT gauge and it is no where near as responsive.
Mark
Apologies Mark, called you Harold. sorry mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by big harold
Yes it did fall quiet quickly and rise quiet quickly.
As mentioned never saw close to 900 on standard tune, never more than 700ish if I recall correctly.
My gauge was digital.
I had a 2010 110 2.4 a few years back with a 150 custom BAS remap and the Alisport intercooler. Pete from BAS told me the IC upgrade was imperative for the remap. The remap also deleted the EGR.
My fuel economy improved and the performance was great. I set her up for overlanding and we towed a camper trailer - all up weighing in at 5.3t.
We set off on a 12 month big lap had only done around 15k kms (total k’s on car were around 90k) when the turbo started to over boost by 70%! She was a slug off the line, then went like a rocket once turbo got on boost- a bit like powerband really [emoji51].
Got the turbo on diagnostics and found it likely that one/some of the variable fins had been damaged, possibly by coke deposits letting go after the EGR delete (?) The turbo now had a lot of bearing slop/rattle and had to go.
I put a 2nd hand one on that I got from TR spares in Radelaide so we could continue our round Oz trip with minimal budget loss.
She went well for the remaining 30k kms and was still going well when I sold her.
Things I learned:
Intercooler upgrade is a must and I would have done the radiator as well if it was in the budget.
: get the manifold etc cleaned after EGR delete.
: CAT cooks your turbo - get rid of it.
: low coolant alarm in the overflow bottle can save a lot of headaches
: I don’t believe exhaust upgrade is necessary but deleting the mid muffler makes the floor under the rear passengers bare feet bearable; good with dyna mat.
I am mostly a stay home dad now, with stuff all income and will be for another 18 months, so I’ve gone back to a mostly stock td5 130. I de catted it, got rid of EGR and that’s about it.
The running costs are a lot lower, I’ve not broken anything major and I’ve mostly fixed things myself under instruction from Greg at Get It Automotive at Tuggerah. I highly recommend him to all.
I couldn’t afford to keep the puma, though I do miss her, she was really nicely setup.
Btw I think the Ranger engine swap is north of $20k and then you’d need to upgrade the whole driveline to cope. I’d love to do it but [emoji389][emoji389][emoji389]
I have also put this in the BAS review thread. Tese two threads have merged really, but this nearly concludes this episode with my truck
Hi all
I have my 130 back from the shop a few days now and have a done a few drives. Mostly 50-100 kms in rolling terrain, low air temps - high teens, unladen.
The REDARC gauge mounted in the dash in a nice instrument, monitoring boost and EGTs.
The pyrometer is installed in the manifold upstream of the Turbo like nando (thanks nando).
The gauge reacts quickly to boost and temp changes, the mode is set as 700 centigrade whereupon the entire gauge flashes red (it's lcd) and beeps a warning.
The exhaust to the centre muffler was changed to a CAT delete pipe supplied by Bruce Davis. An extra bracket was added to improve support and stop rattling.
The head is new the exhaust is new. The radiator was flushed. Flow down 30% on a 3 year old replacement radiator!!, accordingly to the guys who did it.
The inlet manifold was cleaned out as it was clogged with oil residue caused by leaking, failing turbo
The inter cooler is BAS. It was cleaned out as part of the engine works.
Driving with the 170 hp BAS tunes in the upper Yarra ranges with large throttle openings it was not too difficult to push the EGT's over 700.
Just take it through the gears or holding speed on large throttle openings up to 90-100 km/h, ~5% gradient hills and it shot through 700 pretty quick.
Backing off dropped temps as quickly. I was trying generate heat, a bit, but not too much
I planned to de-tune it originally after the rebuild so flashed in the 150 tune and drove it again the next day, a cooler day by 5-8 degrees. Temps driving similarly seemed to top out around 650.
Early days yet and I will play keep further notes.
Limited data so far suggest the 170 may overheat the engine.
My 130 is fairly heavy with winches, bull-bars drawers, roof rack, fridges, etc. Be 2500-2700 kg rolling I reckon.
Another observation was really could not notice much difference in performance between the old and new configuration, ie the decat pipe made little difference
to the acceleration. Little to no difference in exhaust noise, bit more turbo whistle, as I did not delete the center muffler as I dislike noisy exhausts
Clive