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Thread: BAS remap Puma - Reviews / Updates?

  1. #21
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    i will say the 170 BAS remap and associated intercooler upgrade have been the best money i have spent on the money pit. Even without pushing it hard the remap makes my 110 infinitely more pleasant to drive than the standard coughing hopping rev free tune.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatnold View Post
    i will say the 170 BAS remap and associated intercooler upgrade have been the best money i have spent on the money pit. Even without pushing it hard the remap makes my 110 infinitely more pleasant to drive than the standard coughing hopping rev free tune.
    Same, money well spent.

    Imagine driving the defender in std tune, omg. I would be VERY sad
    2015 Defender 110

  3. #23
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    The standard tune is pretty bad. Who mapped out that lumpy torque curve, did they drive it.?

  4. #24
    slug_burner is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    Tunes

    Commercial vehicles and I would not be surprised if modern light vehicles fitted with diesels will derate the engine to prevent self destruction (damage). It comes down to sensing the necessary parameters and programming the self protecting (derating) response.

    Very simple systems used on less sophisticated engine management systems are things like the watchdog with cooling system temperature monitoring and a relay wired to the fuel solenoid. When the set temperature is reached the fuel solenoid shuts off the fuel. A very crude derating but some swear by it saving their engines in the case of a cooling system leak, works best with temperature sensors that monitor the motor temperature directly instead of via the coolant.
    Quote Originally Posted by benji View Post
    ........

    Maybe we're expecting too much out of what really is a smallish motor allready pushing 2 tonnes. Just because it's a v8 doesn't mean it's powerfull.

    One answer REV IT BABY REV IT!!!

  5. #25
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    Hi all


    I have my 130 back from the shop a few days now and have a done a few drives. Mostly 50-100 kms in rolling terrain, low air temps - high teens, unladen.
    The REDARC gauge mounted in the dash in a nice instrument, monitoring boost and EGTs.

    The pyrometer is installed in the manifold upstream of the Turbo like nando (thanks nando).
    The gauge reacts quickly to boost and temp changes, the mode is set as 700 centigrade whereupon the entire gauge flashes red (it's lcd) and beeps a warning.

    The exhaust to the centre muffler was changed to a CAT delete pipe supplied by Bruce Davis. An extra bracket was added to improve support and stop rattling.

    The head is new the exhaust is new. The radiator was flushed. Flow down 30% on a 3 year old replacement radiator!!, accordingly to the guys who did it.

    The inlet manifold was cleaned out as it was clogged with oil residue caused by leaking, failing turbo

    The inter cooler is BAS. It was cleaned out as part of the engine works.

    Driving with the 170 hp BAS tunes in the upper Yarra ranges with large throttle openings it was not too difficult to push the EGT's over 700.
    Just take it through the gears or holding speed on large throttle openings up to 90-100 km/h, ~5% gradient hills and it shot through 700 pretty quick.
    Backing off dropped temps as quickly. I was trying generate heat, a bit, but not too much

    I planned to de-tune it originally after the rebuild so flashed in the 150 tune and drove it again the next day, a cooler day by 5-8 degrees. Temps driving similarly seemed to top out around 650.

    Early days yet and I will play keep further notes.

    Limited data so far suggest the 170 may overheat the engine.

    My 130 is fairly heavy with winches, bull-bars drawers, roof rack, fridges, etc. Be 2500-2700 kg rolling I reckon.

    Another observation was really could not notice much difference in performance between the old and new configuration, ie the decat pipe made little difference
    to the acceleration. Little to no difference in exhaust noise, bit more turbo whistle, as I did not delete the center muffler as I dislike noisy exhausts

    Clive

  6. #26
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    Now that you have a EGT gauge just keep the 170 tune and drive it off EGT's.

  7. #27
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    Hi

    Given the way the temps increased with the 170 compared to the 150 tune and that it is a tourer I will be sticking to the 150 tune.

    Although it makes less power it's only up in the RPM range it is definitive over the 150.

    It's surprising just how easy it was to go over 700 centigrade EGT with the 170 tune.

    You can do it with the 150 but it a long hill and large/full throttle to get it over


    Clive

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by clive22 View Post
    Hi all


    I have my 130 back from the shop a few days now and have a done a few drives. Mostly 50-100 kms in rolling terrain, low air temps - high teens, unladen.
    The REDARC gauge mounted in the dash in a nice instrument, monitoring boost and EGTs.

    The pyrometer is installed in the manifold upstream of the Turbo like nando (thanks nando).
    The gauge reacts quickly to boost and temp changes, the mode is set as 700 centigrade whereupon the entire gauge flashes red (it's lcd) and beeps a warning.

    The exhaust to the centre muffler was changed to a CAT delete pipe supplied by Bruce Davis. An extra bracket was added to improve support and stop rattling.

    The head is new the exhaust is new. The radiator was flushed. Flow down 30% on a 3 year old replacement radiator!!, accordingly to the guys who did it.

    The inlet manifold was cleaned out as it was clogged with oil residue caused by leaking, failing turbo

    The inter cooler is BAS. It was cleaned out as part of the engine works.

    Driving with the 170 hp BAS tunes in the upper Yarra ranges with large throttle openings it was not too difficult to push the EGT's over 700.
    Just take it through the gears or holding speed on large throttle openings up to 90-100 km/h, ~5% gradient hills and it shot through 700 pretty quick.
    Backing off dropped temps as quickly. I was trying generate heat, a bit, but not too much

    I planned to de-tune it originally after the rebuild so flashed in the 150 tune and drove it again the next day, a cooler day by 5-8 degrees. Temps driving similarly seemed to top out around 650.

    Early days yet and I will play keep further notes.

    Limited data so far suggest the 170 may overheat the engine.

    My 130 is fairly heavy with winches, bull-bars drawers, roof rack, fridges, etc. Be 2500-2700 kg rolling I reckon.

    Another observation was really could not notice much difference in performance between the old and new configuration, ie the decat pipe made little difference
    to the acceleration. Little to no difference in exhaust noise, bit more turbo whistle, as I did not delete the center muffler as I dislike noisy exhausts

    Clive
    Clive. Ours being a 90 has a much shorter exhaust.
    We dropped the factory centre and went a straight through muffler - kept the rear resonator.

    It’s silent.

    We had it running with the dump pipe only - at idle you can’t hear it, took a gut full of revs to make any noise with just the dump.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by clive22 View Post
    Hi

    Given the way the temps increased with the 170 compared to the 150 tune and that it is a tourer I will be sticking to the 150 tune.

    Although it makes less power it's only up in the RPM range it is definitive over the 150.

    It's surprising just how easy it was to go over 700 centigrade EGT with the 170 tune.

    You can do it with the 150 but it a long hill and large/full throttle to get it over


    Clive
    Thanks for sharing your experience Clive. It certainly sounds like the 150 tune is a safer better in terms of engine longevity.

    Very good to know re the 150 tune needing a lot more throttle to get it over 700 degrees on a long hill. Was that in 6th or 5th gear?

  10. #30
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    Hi

    The build up of heat as measured by the egt guagae was progressive and was a strong function of the amount of time at large throttle openings and the load on the engine - read up hills

    Holding revs rather than changing up didn't seem to make too much difference.

    The only way to drop them was to back off really and then they dropped pretty quick.

    Read my reports with the fact that mine is a big heavy aerodynamic bus that was driven in hilly terrain around the Upper Yarra Valley of Melbourne

    Some of these hills are steep 5-10% gradient and hundreds of meteres long.

    My egt rose far quicker on hills compared to level ground.

    I wouldnt be surprised if you drove a lighter truck on flat ground with a 170 tune and were fine, but a heavy truck on hilly ground I'd say no don't do, at least long term

    I did after all drive around for 3 years with a 170 tune without a problem so at some point they can't be stressing the engine that bad. But the head gasket did let go in the end.

    I will report in after a few more weeks


    Clive

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