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Thread: Gullwings - Removal Method for the Rear Sliding Windows of a PUMA Defender ?

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    Question Gullwings - Removal Method for the Rear Sliding Windows of a PUMA Defender ?

    Guys...

    Been reading a bit about people's different ways/methods of removing the Sliding Windows and it got me thinking as to has anyone ever tried using thin Mig Welding wire &/or Fishing line and using the sawing method (back and forth) to try and cut through the sealant that way?

    Has this been tried before and if not, what are peoples' thoughts as to whether it would work or not?

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    I tried fishing line, but found it bound up too much and ended up snapping and didn't trust any form of metal wire. In the end I went with the trim remover/putty knife method and it got the job done.

    Once you've removed all the locking tabs from behind the window, force a plastic trim remover tool up and under the outside of the frame. Do it over and over until you've gone around both sides and the bottom. After masking up around the panel (I used duct tape for extra paint protection from the knife) work the knife in at one of the corners and begin to prise the frame from the panel while pulling it away from the car. You may be able to pull sections of the foam out from behind the window, but you still have to break the bond of the bead of sealant.

    The prising part is the hardest in terms of not forcing it, but using enough force the break the bond. You'll quickly gain a feel for how much pressure can and must be used, and once you feel the bond start to give you will feel a lot better as the prising process just gets easier from there.

    Once you've freed up the bottom you may get an urge to use the window frame itself as a lever to break the remaining bond. I would recommend against this as it is a fairly thin aluminium panel and there's a chance you might deform it. Best to lever the window frame in conjunction with working the knife in. Once you have just the top remaining you can lever the frame on its own as its too difficult, atleast for me, to get anything in behind there with the sill in the way. Just be sure to take the weight of the window as the last of the bond is broken so you don't drop it, but in truth they aren't that heavy.

    I dreaded this job and put it off for a while, but when I committed myself and felt that first bond break I knew I had it in the bag. If you really don't feel up to it, maybe hire a windscreen bloke to come and assist with removal?

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    Why make it hard?
    Ive used the wire meat hold and it sucks.
    Go to an auto glass place and they’ll have them out in 15 minutes, probably $50.
    If not, it’s a bastard of a job.
    2012 Defender 110 (A silver one!)
    Defender:LS3 6.2 V8 and 6 Speed Auto, ARB BP51 shocks, springs, Damper, Gwyn Lewis running gear, Superior Engineering Radius arms, Long Ranger tank, Recaros', Dual battery, LED lighting, ARB Lockers etc etc.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Baytown View Post
    .
    If not, it’s a bastard of a job.
    Which it is,don't ask me how i know.
    Paul

    D2,D2,D2a,D4,'09 Defender 110(sons), all moved on.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Baytown View Post
    Why make it hard?
    Ive used the wire meat hold and it sucks.
    Go to an auto glass place and they’ll have them out in 15 minutes, probably $50.
    If not, it’s a bastard of a job.
    How do they get it out?

    No way $50, you obviously havent done it.
    Its bloody hard work, I reckon the autoglass place would charge $250 each side. Just my guess.
    2015 Defender 110

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    I’ve done a few for customers. The best tool I’ve come up with is a 50mm wide putty knife, a nice flexible one, sharpened on one side.
    Lots of tape to protect the paint.
    The main reason you need something flexible is to do the top edge as the gutter makes it awkward to get at. You really need to cut the double sided tape and sealant all the way around the window because, as already mentioned, it’s unwise to force the frame out with risk of bending the panel.
    It is a time consuming, and somewhat frustrating job, but it’s all worth it in the end.
    I’ve never heard of anyone regretting fitting Gullwings, they’re so much more useful than the original sliding windows.
    '88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
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    Quote Originally Posted by karlz View Post
    How do they get it out?

    No way $50, you obviously haven't done it.
    Its bloody hard work, I reckon the autoglass place would charge $250 each side. Just my guess.
    Yep, I had a mobile glass guy come out & the two of us spent 3 hours removing & fitting both sides (after I had already removed the inside trim).
    Cost me $300, but worth every cent as it's a ***** of a job, but as Murray said, the end result is well worth the pain.
    '51 Series 1 80"
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    Ok, you must be right, I haven’t done it Karlz.
    And yes, it was no more than $50 at the local auto Glass place. Photo attached to prove I have no idea.
    Its not hard work as they have the electric tool to remove the sealant. It was a simple job for them.



    Quote Originally Posted by karlz View Post
    How do they get it out?

    No way $50, you obviously havent done it.
    Its bloody hard work, I reckon the autoglass place would charge $250 each side. Just my guess.
    70D95E58-B4DF-4F44-90EC-3BE089DE746E.jpg

    7D9B6B29-0B22-413E-880F-44720971E4E6.jpg
    2012 Defender 110 (A silver one!)
    Defender:LS3 6.2 V8 and 6 Speed Auto, ARB BP51 shocks, springs, Damper, Gwyn Lewis running gear, Superior Engineering Radius arms, Long Ranger tank, Recaros', Dual battery, LED lighting, ARB Lockers etc etc.

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    OK, maybe its semantics, but you "Havent done it", someone else did.
    That said, $50 is bull****, even per side.

    I originally posted the first in depth account of my install, and like Murray we both agree the "putty knife" approach is the answer.

    Not trying to be offensive, but letting ppl know in this thread that its a labour intensive job, and if I could have got it done for $500 labour costs I wouldve paid that.

    Murray, how much you charge, ball park?
    2015 Defender 110

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    Quote Originally Posted by karlz View Post
    Murray, how much you charge, ball park?
    I rarely do installations / fittings anymore, I need to concentrate on production, but for a Gullwing install on a Puma I would quote for four hours, so around $360.
    That’s for a vehicle with easy access inside, if there’s cargo barriers or other stuff that needs to be removed it can add quite a bit of time to the job. A lot of Defenders are fitted out in the back, so it could easily escalate to a $500 job.
    '88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
    '85 Isuzu 120 Trayback, '72 SIIA SWB Diesel Soft Top
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