Just for interest, unhook the injector loom plug, see what faults it throws...
Just for interest, unhook the injector loom plug, see what faults it throws...
+ 1 for tow starting, had similar with a manual D2, all sorts of fuel and electrical fault finding over a week and endless cranking hooked up to my one. We then towed it down an airfield got started 2nd attempt which was at a good pace. No issues starting it since.
Thank you all.... really appreciate the ideas.
To answer: the relays aren't hot (or even warm) to the touch, and contacts and voltage measured (11.8V) seem good; is 11.8V acceptable?
The diagnostic tool only talked with the ECU once and the codes were numerous, but relay overheat was a common fault.
Now, I can;t get any communication out of the ECU> Diagnostic Tool
A pull start might be the answer!
What is puzzling me is that when I turn the key to position II, I don't get my glow plug and engine light to come on like normal. Makes me think about inertia switch, so I have bypassed that by hardwiring the plug with a peice of wire across the two outside holes. When I do this voltage shows back up at the main relay #85 (from memory), so I think I am managing that right? Thoughts?
I should check the fuel/ fuel pump. I don't have an extra pump, so not going that route. I haven't ever messed with fuel lines before, I know they are fragile, but and recco's for checking the fuel around the filter?
hmmm....Quote:
Originally Posted by ThorneGator
are you getting power to the ecu?
So....
The ecu operates the glow plugs and the fuel pump and engine light.
If none of these are working it would suggest that:
A: the ecu is not getting power
B: the ecu is fried
If A is the cause you will not get Any readings or communication with the ecu.
You originally posted that you read faults, which meant it was getting power but there was a problem.. but I now see it will no longer do this, you could have an intermittent power problem.
Which still leads us back to the choice between A and B.
You could try running power directly across from the battery, but I would probably be looking at back probing the ecu multiplug to see if its getting power.
You should be able to do a search for which ones to probe.
There are 3 or 4 positive and earth feeds EACH that would need to be checked.
And your voltage is possibly a bit low.
Do you hear the relays in the battery box click when you turn the key on?
What do the fuel and temp gauge do?
Do you have ABS ? Do the lights come on?
Cheers
James
Thanks James & Dave,
That is where I am starting to look now as well. The ABS lights come on (key in position II), but still no glow or engine. The relays work, but don't click when I turn the key. To bypass them not clicking, hardwire them to turn the fuel pump, glows, engine, fan relays on, and then try to start it......then engine just turns over but doesn't fire. I am assuming right now, that since the ECU doesn't isn't working that it doesn't get a signal from the sensors (including the Crank Position Senor) and so doesn't let the engine fire, thoughts?
That is a good idea to back probe the power supplies to the ecu to see if I can get it to 'light' up. What do you all use to back probe those wires-connections?
Yeah there is really no point in "hot wiring"
Those particular relays, the ecu has to work them.
From memory...I think one of them fires the ecu, but I haven't got one I can check at the moment.
There is also a fuse that could be blown..and I really can't remember which one, but check all the fuses under the seat.
I'm pretty sure that as soon as you turn on the ignition at least one relay should click under the seat, so I'd be turning the ignition on and wriggling them, particularly the first two from the left side as you look at them, if that doesn't do anything (no clicks) I'd be swapping them around.
A multimeter can be used to probe.
Cheers
James
So...... I have been probing and measuring and wiggling and repeating.
I have 12+ volts all through my fuses, relays and through the brown (w/ orange trace) wires all the way upto the ECU (oil free). Then when I measure the impedance of the ground wires leaving the ECU, they are all > 300 ohms= no good! So best I can tell my issue resides within the walls of the ECU. Am I missing something?
She goes to the mechanic in a couple of days, so I think I let them solve the ECU. I just wish I could get'er started so I didn't have to tow her in!
My current ECU is remapped. Will I loose the remap? Any suggestions on steps with the ECU and not repurchasing a remap?
I would be finding an earth point somewhere, connect the multimeter negative probe too that, then check the positive Feed wires for the ecu.
If they all check out ok, at 12 volts or more, reverse the procedure, hook the positive multimeter probe up to a known positive, then see if all the earth's running to the ecu return 12 volts.
The plugs can be removed from the ecu for this, which makes it a bit Easier to probe..
Did you find an ecu pin out diagram?
Cheers
James
Thanks James, I did the first half of what you recommended, but then looked at impedance after that. I will try what you said and measure Volts with the +ve & -ve at the plug. Thanks you!Quote:
Originally Posted by shack