A couple of shock absorber questions for the 130 if I may

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rick130

There's a list of open/closed lengths in an old thread, just a bit difficult to search on the phone.
80 Series dampers are what most of us went to, they are a good 1.5-2" longer in stroke, you just need to raise the towers a bit (height depending on brand and bushes used) to prevent metal to metal at full bump.


[Edit] and an addendum, obviously brake hoses need lengthening, anti roll bar needs removing (prop shaft hits it) a wide angled yoke/uni or DC front shaft needs fitting (the stock one binds) castor should be corrected (although I never bothered), etc.

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There are open/closed lengths in this, plus some advice. Not sure if this is exactly what you want. Hope its helpful.

Pros,Cons & Myths

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DiscoMick

There are open/closed lengths in this, plus some advice. Not sure if this is exactly what you want. Hope its helpful.

Pros,Cons & Myths

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It only compares Bilstein, other manufacturers 80 Series dampers are much more suitable (ie longer open/closed) if longer travel is required.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rick130

There's a list of open/closed lengths in an old thread, just a bit difficult to search on the phone.
80 Series dampers are what most of us went to, they are a good 1.5-2" longer in stroke, you just need to raise the towers a bit (height depending on brand and bushes used) to prevent metal to metal at full bump.


[Edit] and an addendum, obviously brake hoses need lengthening, anti roll bar needs removing (prop shaft hits it) a wide angled yoke/uni or DC front shaft needs fitting (the stock one binds) castor should be corrected (although I never bothered), etc.

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I had to increased the height of my bumpstops to prevent the shocks from topping(or bottoming out - can never remember proper term) out. Don't run front/rear swaybars and have longer brakelines and still have std front radius arms and it seems to drive normally.

Re: Front Driveshaft - still running the std one and to date - no issues yet. I only assume this is a issue if your constantly 4wdriving where by your max flexing regularly??

I replied to their email asking why, if they're hazardous, are they on their Australian site and why nothing about that had been mentioned when I'd accessed their chat service regarding freight charges. I also asked that the facts are checked before I made a decision.

Two days later and the reply turns up:

Hi

I am sorry, there was some confusion at this end. I will put your order through as urgent. Again I am sorry for the confusion.

Regards

Don.

Cool,

Glad you got it sorted.

Ken

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Robmacca

I had to increased the height of my bumpstops to prevent the shocks from topping(or bottoming out - can never remember proper term) out. Don't run front/rear swaybars and have longer brakelines and still have std front radius arms and it seems to drive normally.

Re: Front Driveshaft - still running the std one and to date - no issues yet. I only assume this is a issue if your constantly 4wdriving where by your max flexing regularly??

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The bump stop thing will work, too.

Yep, my uni was binding at full droop. If you aren't off road and maxing it out, you'll get away with it, but if you do a bit of off road you could wreck a uni and yoke so it's best to be aware and sort it so it doesn't leave you having to do track side repairs.

A DC front shaft also takes the slight driveshaft vibration out of the front when you have 100+mm between the (standard) bump stops

And today they arrived.[smilebigeye]

Don.