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Thread: Lockers...

  1. #1
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    Lockers...

    Interested to hear people's thoughts, experiences, advice etc.

    I have a 1995, 110 Defender, 300tdi wagon; in very good shape (mechanicaly and structurally.) It's my family's weekend getaway machine. It goes on 255s on wolfs, 2inch springs and long travel shocks (with relocation cones, spring retainers etc.) It does very well as is. Has a winch (for emergencies really.. I don't trust it = cheapy but has saved me numerous times.) I have good recovery points front and rear and usually travel with other 4wds.

    I live one the west coast of Tasmania, and driving here can be demanding. For the most part my current set up works. But, taking things a step further, I have been putting pennies away (or rather, investing in penny stocks on the ASX hehe) Time is here to upgrade.

    Anyway, considering options, I am looking at Detroit locker in the rear and truetrack in the front...

    Thoughts? Experiences? Options?

  2. #2
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    This is the car btw

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Landy Red View Post
    Anyway, considering options, I am looking at Detroit locker in the rear and truetrac in the front...
    Do the Detroit rear first with heavy duty aftermarket half shafts.

    You probably do not need the front. It only adds a bit more and if you are here asking, you probably are not doing things that need that extra bit. Doing the front also really requires aftermarket CV joints and halfshafts, so it gets quite expensive.

  4. #4
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    I’ve never driven a defer Detroit but have followed a few and they seem to do alright.

    I have an ARB on order for my current defer, had F&R in my 95 defer amd they were faultless.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the input. Funny the advice you get re the half shafts. Some in here seem adamant about the need for uprated heavy duty ones yet others reckon it's not needed in sals.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Landy Red View Post
    Thanks for the input. Funny the advice you get re the half shafts. Some in here seem adamant about the need for uprated heavy duty ones yet others reckon it's not needed in sals.
    The genuine Sals axles are a pretty soft grade of cheddar.
    Are you running greased or oil lubed hubs?
    Slip a drive flange off and check the splines of both the drive flange and axle, if greased they'll generally they'll be suffering from fretting corrosion
    I'd be going with Maxi Drive axles personally.

  7. #7
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    Running greased and with uprated flanges. Half shafts are newish so not much ware at all. I am thinking that with the increased ability of Detroit could actually decrease likihood of snapping axles as it will more easily crawl up and over... and I could have 3 sets of spares for the price.. and afford the truetrack in the front.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
    Do the Detroit rear first with heavy duty aftermarket half shafts.

    You probably do not need the front. It only adds a bit more and if you are here asking, you probably are not doing things that need that extra bit. Doing the front also really requires aftermarket CV joints and halfshafts, so it gets quite expensive.
    Bud, there is plenty more I can do in future with added capability. So of course I am going to see how others here have gone?

  9. #9
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    IMO you are incorrect. I believe the stress on the axles is increased with a locker that is locked over obstacles
    If your diff is unlocked all the power in that diff is transferred to the wheel with the least load. Say you have your diff locked and one wheel on the air ALL the power on that diff is transferred to the wheel on the ground whereas unlocked almost zero power is transferred to that drive wheel.
    IMO stronger axles are a must when installing lockers
    Phil B

    Custodian of:
    1974 S3 swb wagon (sold)
    1978 S3 swb canvas
    48 749 '88 4x4 Perentie
    1985 County with 4BD1T

  10. #10
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    In my experience I snapped half shaft only once, when the wheel lost traction momentarily, going up steep climb, around corner in a rutt; wheel spinning due to open diff and loss of traction, then as it came down down and grabbed it snapped. I just wonder if this would have happened with locked diff? - I would have probably never lost the traction in the first place...
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil B View Post
    IMO you are incorrect. I believe the stress on the axles is increased with a locker that is locked over obstacles
    If your diff is unlocked all the power in that diff is transferred to the wheel with the least load. Say you have your diff locked and one wheel on the air ALL the power on that diff is transferred to the wheel on the ground whereas unlocked almost zero power is transferred to that drive wheel.
    IMO stronger axles are a must when installing lockers

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