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Thread: Poly Tank Advice

  1. #1
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    Poly Tank Advice

    Hi
    Just about to fit two poly tanks in my 130 tub up against the headboard.
    45lt Diesel and a 75lt water. For the out let's is it best to use thread tape or liquid thread to help seal. I was going to gravity feed the diesel into the filler tube of the main tank . Using a manual tap. Does anyone know of a good fitting I can drill into the filler line to attach the feeder line.
    Or is there a better to get fuel into the tank?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Floydo View Post
    Hi
    Just about to fit two poly tanks in my 130 tub up against the headboard.
    45lt Diesel and a 75lt water. For the out let's is it best to use thread tape or liquid thread to help seal. I was going to gravity feed the diesel into the filler tube of the main tank . Using a manual tap. Does anyone know of a good fitting I can drill into the filler line to attach the feeder line.
    Or is there a better to get fuel into the tank?
    Hi Floydo

    I can’t comment on the fitting into the filler line but always use a good quality thread tape (none of that crap you get from the big green shed)

    I always put a bit of Loxeal on as well (it’s the Irish blood in me “sure to be sure”) although I have a suspicion it may not work well with the poly tank

    All of the poly fittings at the farm I only use thread tape (apex brand if I recall) and use the addition of Loxeal on metal to metal fittings

    Poly Tank AdvicePoly Tank Advice
    Gav
    1985 110 Dual Cab 4.6 R380 ARB Lockers (currently NIS due to roof kissing road)
    1985 110 Station Wagon 3.5 LT85 (unmolested blank canvas)

  3. #3
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    Use a 12v fuel transfer pump for the diesel and you will be able to operate this from the cab
    You only get one shot at life, Aim well

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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by trout1105 View Post
    Use a 12v fuel transfer pump for the diesel and you will be able to operate this from the cab
    These pumps work really well!...however given that it's a gravity feed, then instead of a pump, using the cab switch to operate a 12V solenoid valve is probably all that's required...e.g.

    "DC 12V N/C Electrical Solenoid Valve Brass 1/2" BSP Water Air Fuel Diesel BI1323" for a tad under A$20 inc postage on ebay

    (I was looking at something similar but carrying diesel inside a Santa fe could be "problematic" unless I removed the third row of seats and strapped the tank (preferably a bladder) under a false floor...in which case a 'solid state' pump would be ideal)
    MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
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  5. #5
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    Locktite make a specific product for oils and poly fittings
    I have a tube in the shed
    But also have a sleeping baby on me and it’s raining

    Anyways - have used it on both poly / brass / steel fittings with diesel / hydro oil etc - no leaks

    What vintage ute do you have?
    On the older girls there was an unused 1/2” fuel barb on the tank - just need to drill it out

    On a newer one you could maybe tie the drain from the tub into the accessory breather which is largely redundant on a 130

    Or as suggested a pump and pump it into the filler neck.

    Steve
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  6. #6
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    I have an extra fuel tank under the tray of my 130.

    I have a simple on/off valve, a small pump and an inline fuel filter mounted on the support rail of the tray. To connect into the main tank I cut the breather tub that runs up the side of the filler and inserted a T piece. (Not sure if this would be possible with a tub.)

    I got a simple inline water/diesel pump from Whitworths and that works well and when turned off still allows fuel to trickle through. I normally open the tap when the main tank is half empty and fuel trickles through at the same rate that it is used for the next 500 or so km!

    One warning: I need to have the fuel cap open when pumping into the main tank. If I don’t, then the tank pressurises and that’s probably not good! This means I can only pump fuel when stationary which is a bit of a pain. It’s possible that the breather is blocked, or perhaps it’s only supposed to let in/out a small amount of air.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by trout1105 View Post
    Use a 12v fuel transfer pump for the diesel and you will be able to operate this from the cab
    Have you done this? I find that the main tank pressurises and so I can only run my transfer pump with the fuel cap open.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by PWat View Post
    Have you done this? I find that the main tank pressurises and so I can only run my transfer pump with the fuel cap open.
    I have used this system on a few different vehicles without an issues.
    If you main tank is pressurising then you have a venting problem that needs to be rectified.
    You only get one shot at life, Aim well

    2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
    2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
    4.6m Quintrex boat
    20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone

  9. #9
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    Depending on how you teed into your breather line
    I could see a problem where diesel flows both into tank via breather but also to the cap via the other direction and thereby limits ability to vent to atmo

    Perhaps moving the tee closer to the tank may help your breathe on the run problem ?

    S
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by PWat View Post
    Have you done this? I find that the main tank pressurises and so I can only run my transfer pump with the fuel cap open.
    I had a problem on both my Defenders (1996 & 2010) when transferring fuel between my sill tank into my main tank. I found that air was not venting fast enough and therefore built up pressure in the main plastic fuel tank which concerned me... I've since installed a equalising hose between the 2 tanks and all has been fine since then

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