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Thread: 1998 300TDi intermittent starting issue - which parts to I need to replace?

  1. #1
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    1998 300TDi intermittent starting issue - which parts to I need to replace?

    Hi all

    My 1998 300TDI 130 has developed a starting issue. Seems to be when the car is hot. I turn the key and no power feed is getting to the starter motor.

    I have narrowed it down to the ignition switch. I thought I just needed to replace the ignition barrel, like this:

    Land Rover Parts - IGNITION LOCK ASSEMBLY - COUNTY (ALL PETROL MODELS) & DEFENDER (200/300tdi, TD5, PUMA) (includes switch) (DOES NOT INCLUDE CLAMP & BOLTS)

    But I see there is also this:

    Land Rover Parts - IGNITION SWITCH DEFENDER

    Do I need to replace both?

    Thanks
    Andrew
    1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
    1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver

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    I replaced the whole assembly…..but my issue was the key

    You could try the switch first.

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    Also check spade connection at the rear of the fuel shut off solenoid. If they corrode can be difficult/cranky to start.

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    I've just had the exact same issue start to happen, but no luck finding another thread so I'm very happy to see this. 1998 300tdi, no power to starter motor, so far has only occurred when the car is hot.

    If you do find the culprit please post, very interested in the failure mechanism and why the car temp is a factor.
    Cheers
    Niels

    Snowy - 1998 300tdi Defender 110

    Past:
    The Toad - 1992 200Tdi Defender 110

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    I am working on the theory that an electrical connection somewhere inside the ignition switch has let go and looses contact causing the failure. Mine is the original and at 23 years old/340,000kms, it's anyone's guess as to how many times the key as been put and turned.

    Say if the car has averaged being started twice a day over 23 years......that nearly 17,000 times!

    The fuel cut off solenoid should not stop power to the starter motor. If there is a loose (or dirty in my experience) connection at the cut off solenoid, the car will crank but not fire.
    Andrew
    1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
    1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 86mud View Post
    Hi all

    My 1998 300TDI 130 has developed a starting issue. Seems to be when the car is hot. I turn the key and no power feed is getting to the starter motor.

    I have narrowed it down to the ignition switch. I thought I just needed to replace the ignition barrel, like this:

    Land Rover Parts - IGNITION LOCK ASSEMBLY - COUNTY (ALL PETROL MODELS) & DEFENDER (200/300tdi, TD5, PUMA) (includes switch) (DOES NOT INCLUDE CLAMP & BOLTS)

    But I see there is also this:

    Land Rover Parts - IGNITION SWITCH DEFENDER

    Do I need to replace both?

    Thanks
    Just the switch if the key is turning properly.

    I've had the intermittent thing happen when warm / hot and it was the switch. You can take them apart by playing with the alloy casing and playing with the copper dimples inside but IME it's a very temporary solution.

    The barrel in mine is not much chop again, found out I shouldn't have 20 keys hanging off the ignition key.

    DL

  7. #7
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    I bought an entire new ignition barrel with switch (Lucas branded).

    and success...starts much more positive now.

    Getting the original snap bolts out was a little tedious, but a new set of easy outs did the job.

    I've now got the other task of removing the door key barrels and taking them to a locksmith to be keyed alike with the new ignition key.

    Friday night's jobs are done.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Andrew
    1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
    1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver

  8. #8
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    I had nearly the same intermittent starting problem, only happened when it was hot. Went through the whole routine, connections, power was still getting to starter motor etc.etc. This went on for months thought had solved it then all of a sudden would be back. Eventually a mechanic mate was over, told him about it, anyway he went through the spade connectors pulled them off and with a pair of pliers crimped them down a little, apparently they were tight (by what I could tell, but not enough) so over time loosened enough so power still went through so read, well but when hot expanded enough for connection to loosen. Problem solved, the moral is that I ended up with a brand new starter motor and relay sitting on my shelves!!

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