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It's either A: costing you over $4000 OR B: its a warranty issue and costing you nothing, you are not being clear as to which it is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chenz
If its costing YOU nothing, sure go for it. Keep in mind what they are doing is fitting the latest (complicated) fix for the Defender, so if/when it takes a dump many years later out of warranty then you are likely to be more screwed.
Simplicity would be my pick though...
As a follow up to this post, I purchased the immobiliser software disable from BAS for my 2011 2.4 Puma. Pretty simple install and seems to work as I can start the vehicle with only the key and the key fob nowhere near the vehicle. I am pretty happy as it removes one of my concerns when travelling remotely.
Is that reversible? So it can be on in evil suburbia, but off when remote?
Not as far as I am aware. Mine is not a daily driver. But i do use a kill switch. Really they will tow it if they want it.Quote:
Originally Posted by skidrov
The saga continues. On our latest trip to outback NSW the Defender refused to start. Turn the key it cranks fires then immediately stalls. Tried the remove the key lock wait till the red light stops flashing unlock replace key - same issue. After walking some considerable distance to get phone coverage, contacted the NRMA who sent out a rep a few hours later - took him a while to find me as I was down some track of the road. He plugged his Snap-On scanner unit into the ECU port, tuned on the ignition and found the following two fault codes - neither of which my Nanocom unit identified
Attachment 180883
He pressed some buttons, cleared the codes and presto she fired straight up. He tested the battery and found that on cranking it dropped voltage. At the next large town I purchased a new crank battery and installed it. The NRMA guy also told me to buy an OBD2 scanner which he says can identify and clear the fault codes if the same thing happens again. The fault occurred again a few times but the lock unlock had me going again so no need to get the OBD2 scanner out.
I sent this information to the dealer who shall remain nameless and they claim neither of these two fault codes should trigger the refuse to start issue. I am taking it back in for the 5th time - they have had it there in total around 5 weeks and claim to try and start it a few times a day but cannot get it to fault while there so can't identify what the cause is. To say I am frustrated is an understatement and I am at the point where I am afraid to take it remote. Lets see what they come up with this time.
We had a non start with our 2.4 Puma. It sat for a week with no starting. This is what fixed it.
The negative battery clamp was loosened and refitted but pushed as far down on the negative terminal as it would go before being tightened. Been perfect ever since. It is worth a try.
Prior to this I had tried all of the usual suggestions including removing and refitting the negative battery clamp. Like I said it was refitting the negative battery clamp as far down the negative terminal it would go that sorted it.
Chenz,
I've been having a similar problemfor a while where the Defender will crank over and immobilize after a few cranks. Locking and unlocking clears it.
Using my Nanocom I checked out the alarm module and found that at the end of settings group 1 there is a setting called "Passive immobilize". According to the documentation, this setting configures the alarm to automatically activate the immobilizer after a certain period of time after the key is removed. This was active on mine so I disabled it and the problem has gone!
Maybe this will work for you.
Thanks I tried that but the ECU kept turning it back on. Maybe there is a sequence that needs to be done as there are a number of areas such as immobiliser, alarm, key etc that can be enabled and disabled.Quote:
Originally Posted by one_iota
Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chenz
The first time I changed the setting I had the ignition on and it reverted to enabled. So the next time I had the ignition off and no key in the ignition. I changed the setting to disabled and üsed the "write" button and it read the settings and wrote the setting to the ECU....I tested it with the ignition on and the setting has remained as I set it.
Thanks for the heads up. I am taking it back to the dealer tomorrow as I still think they should identify why this keeps happening and fix the fault after me paying for a new immobiliser. I will after that try your fix and disable the bloody thing once and for all.Quote:
Originally Posted by one_iota
