Interesting. I assume the battery negative is okay.
Earths sound more likely then. Good luck.
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Interesting. I assume the battery negative is okay.
Earths sound more likely then. Good luck.
G'day all,
After spending some time and doing some research I think I'm getting a little closer.
While checking and refreshing all earth points I found my inertia switch has had the rubber cap eaten off it by rats (or mice, I cannot exclusively blame the rats). Where I lived a few years ago had a few of these nasties kicking around, they ate my neighbours wiring loom as well.
Anyway, over the last few years since then, this switch has accumulated bugs, plant matter and probably a fair amount of salt and sand. When I cleaned it out I also found corrosion of the terminals. I think it has finally let go.
After a long search I found a supplier that could get me the part next business day. All dealers were 3 - 4 weeks. Replaced it and still have all the same issues.
All is now pointing towards the ALM, aka the 'black 10AS'.
I understand these can be difficult and expensive to source? I would also like to check with a Nanocom before I go to far.
I may purchase one of these units as they are relatively inexpensive.
Cheers
John
Since my last post I have replaced the immobiliser unit. I bought this second hand and had the information from my unit transferred to the 'new' one. I then reprogrammed my keys with my Nanocom and can now lock/unlock the car with the fob. After doing this I noticed a few other things come back to life that I didn't even realise were associated with the ALM system. E.g. My interior light started working when opening the door. Now that I have the Nanocom I can see all these settings and I think the ALM has failed slowly over the last few years and slowly taken out these functions.Whilst I've had some success here and reprogrammed my keys I still cannot communicate with the ALM via Nanocom (my ECU guy can't either with his tools) and the car still won't start without removing/replacing the negative battery lead. Thankfully its under the passenger seat or this process would be even more painful. Can anyone recommend an auto electrician in the Brisbane/Sunny Coast areas who knows Landies well?I'm thinking MR Automotive at this stage.Cheers
I've had nothing to do with them but since u live on the sunny coast - what about British Offroad? A bit closer for you...Quote:
Originally Posted by Landy_Lover
I've recently moved back to Bris, though Sunny Coast is still an option.
I would consider going there, I frequent the place for parts.
However, the workshop is booked out for three months.
Cheers
I'm still working on this problem and have the car booked into MR Auto in Feb (earliest i could get [bigsad]).
I bought a Nanocom and did some diagnostics. I got a few codes that seem to point at the instrument cluster?
- U0001 High speed CAN communication bus (INTERMITTENT).
- U0100 Lost communication with ECM Module 'A'.
- U0155 Lost communication with instrument cluster control module (INTERMITTENT).
I can still start the car by removing/replacing the negative battery lead. This seems to 'trick' the ECU in some way.
Does anyone know how this works? What in the ECU an I 'tricking'?
Cheers
hi mate, I've used these guys a few times, and am very happy with them. They are in Albion
Knights House of Rover – Land Rover and Range Rover Service & Repair
Cheers mate. I'll check em out.
I'm sure you have had a good look, but if your inertia switch is eaten by rodents, then I'm putting money on that somewhere they have eaten something else! If the faults are intermittent, then this could be a fact that fits the theory.
We have had our fair share of rodent induced engine failures here in Tamworth, and it would be possible that somewhere hidden elsewhere these critters have exposed and chewed more than just the obvious?
Hope you can find the issue!
Following up on the starting issue I have had. Finally had the car looked over (long wait list on LR mechanics atm).
The CAN system from the instrument binnacle had equalised. Fault in the Hi side. Fixed dry joint behind the plug and seems to have done the trick.
Got about 1000k's on it since the fix and still starts on the key. They were also able to work around the immobiliser, which I thought impossible on the post 2012 models. I now have no alarm system or flashy light on lock/unlock, but as these components are known to fail (I'm on my second) this should keep me going.
Unfortunately I still have what seems like an earth issue somewhere. When I turn headlights on at idle it may conk out. Also, if i hit a bumpy road it will lose power for a second. Particularly over train lines [bigsad]
I am leaning towards a fuel pump issue here. Recently inspected the top of the tank with a camera and found built up sand and corrosion around the unit. Just gotta find time to drop the tank.
Cheers
John