A frame castellated nut - size?

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Originally Posted by ozy013

Mine is a 2010 Puma with the same Rover diff fitted as the TD5. There is just enough space if you buy the right socket...I will try and get a pic of the socket I used tomorrow.

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Thanks ozy013.

I have noticed several Puma owners referring, in posts, to the use of a socket on this nut, but I thought that there must have been a change in the brackets between Puma & TD5 models which made a socket possible.

On the Defender2 UK site a few TD5 owners have referred to grinding down a normal shallow socket so that it will fit.

I would be most interested in a socket which would fit "as is", & if you could measure its height I would be very appreciative, as I could then compare the dimensions with my 30mm socket before buying one.

Cheers,

Lionel

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Originally Posted by jbe

This style of impact socket was the only one that fitted. I think it also helped that is was a hex pattern which did not tend to round the edges of the nut.

Attachment 172439Attachment 172440Attachment 172441

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Thanks jbe.

Cheers,

Lionel

I don't know what rear diffs are used in the Pumas (maybe Rover). As far as I know, the early Td5 110s came out with Salisbury rear diffs and the later ones with P38 rear diffs and Rover front diffs (the 90s have Rover rear diffs AFAIK).
The diff centers in Rover diffs are called long neck and the ones in P38 diffs are called short necks. So, if your diff center in the rear has a significantly shorter neck than the one in your front diff of your Td5 110, you have a P38 rear diff (same as me).
This would mean the socket, I posted will work.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jbe

I don't know what rear diffs are used in the Pumas (maybe Rover). As far as I know, the early Td5 110s came out with Salisbury rear diffs and the later ones with P38 rear diffs and Rover front diffs (the 90s have Rover rear diffs AFAIK).
The diff centers in Rover diffs are called long neck and the ones in P38 diffs are called short necks. So, if your diff center in the rear has a significantly shorter neck than the one in your front diff of your Td5 110, you have a P38 rear diff (same as me).
This would mean the socket, I posted will work.

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Thanks very much for the useful information. I'll have a look & see exactly what rear diff I have. Pity it's not a Salisbury - getting a socket on there is a doddle!

I have a local branch of Sydney Tools who seem to stock the Daytona impacts. I'll try & measure one after the lockdown ends (!!).

Cheers,

Lionel

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jbe

I don't know what rear diffs are used in the Pumas (maybe Rover). As far as I know, the early Td5 110s came out with Salisbury rear diffs and the later ones with P38 rear diffs and Rover front diffs (the 90s have Rover rear diffs AFAIK).
The diff centers in Rover diffs are called long neck and the ones in P38 diffs are called short necks. So, if your diff center in the rear has a significantly shorter neck than the one in your front diff of your Td5 110, you have a P38 rear diff (same as me).
This would mean the socket, I posted will work.

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The rear diff centre is about 160mm (flange to diff casing joint), & the front is about 200mm, so rear is a P38 diff.

Of course, the other complication I have is that the lower bracket holding the ball joint to the diff is welded to the diff casing, not bolted as in earlier models. This means I have to be able to undo the nut on the car (!!). Maybe it is similar on the Puma.

Cheers,

Lionel

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lionel

The rear diff centre is about 160mm (flange to diff casing joint), & the front is about 200mm, so rear is a P38 diff.

Of course, the other complication I have is that the lower bracket holding the ball joint to the diff is welded to the diff casing, not bolted as in earlier models. This means I have to be able to undo the nut on the car (!!). Maybe it is similar on the Puma.

Cheers,

Lionel

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Yes, you should be able to unbolt the nut on the car with the socket, I posted pictures of earlier. I think, I bought it at Sydney Tools.
I found a couple of pictures in my photo album which help identify the type of diff and show the welded on cast bracket.
The picture from underneath the car is my Defender to identify the diff model, the other one was from a Facebook post. I think that brackets on the Puma are a little shallower than on the Td5 P38 diff.



Attachment 172449Attachment 172448

I have a 30mm ring spanner and a KINCROME K2414 (3/4 drive 6 sided impact socket - 54mm deep) or a K2882 (1/2 drive 12 sided socket - 43mm deep) here in Moe is you want a loan Lionel. PM me.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jbe

Yes, you should be able to unbolt the nut on the car with the socket, I posted pictures of earlier. I think, I bought it at Sydney Tools.
I found a couple of pictures in my photo album which help identify the type of diff and show the welded on cast bracket.
The picture from underneath the car is my Defender to identify the diff model, the other one was from a Facebook post. I think that brackets on the Puma are a little shallower than on the Td5 P38 diff.



Attachment 172449Attachment 172448

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Thanks again. A member of the Defender2 site (UK) mentioned being able to undo his 30mm nut with a suitable socket, but not tighten up the replacement. This seemed odd to me & I have questioned him about it. His vehicle is a 90, but seems to have a similar setup.

Did you have any difficulty tightening up your new one?

Cheers,

Lionel

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lionel

Thanks again. A member of the Defender2 site (UK) mentioned being able to undo his 30mm nut with a suitable socket, but not tighten up the replacement. This seemed odd to me & I have questioned him about it. His vehicle is a 90, but seems to have a similar setup.

Did you have any difficulty tightening up your new one?

Cheers,

Lionel

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I had no issues with tightening. I used a 30cm socket extension and a torque ratchet.
I put the socket over the nut first and then put the extension into the socket.
I used to do it with a 32mm socket before which was easier to get on and off, but this messed up the edges of the castellated nut.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jbe

I had no issues with tightening. I used a 30cm socket extension and a torque ratchet.
I put the socket over the nut first and then put the extension into the socket.
I used to do it with a 32mm socket before which was easier to get on and off, but this messed up the edges of the castellated nut.

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Just a follow up. I did the job last Wednesday & it was not too easy, mainly due to a ferociously tight castellated nut. I had obtained a Daytona 30mm impact socket, & modified it as you suggested, so no problem there. Thanks very much for the info.

My Milwaukee 18V impact driver wouldn't go near undoing the nut, which shocked me rather, as it was the 1st time the Milwaukee had failed to undo anything previously on the Defender! Heating up the nut with a Bunnings blow torch got it to undo though.

The next thing was the taper joint which was MOST reluctant. I had the car on axle stands under the chassis to take the weight off the wheels, but I also put a jack under the A frame bracket itself to lift the wheels just off the floor, so the whole weight of the rear axle & wheels was held by the taper joint. Then I used the blow torch again. After about 2 minutes of heating the taper separated with a very satisfying BANG.

After that it was very straightforward to clean everything up & fit the new bracket assembly. Although there seemed to be very little play in the old one (the boot was split), the car does feel better on the road, so there must have been a little bit of unwanted axle movement.

All good, & thanks to you & all the other posters for your help.

Cheers,

Lionel