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Thread: A frame castellated nut - size?

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozy013 View Post
    Mine is a 2010 Puma with the same Rover diff fitted as the TD5. There is just enough space if you buy the right socket...I will try and get a pic of the socket I used tomorrow.
    Thanks ozy013.

    I have noticed several Puma owners referring, in posts, to the use of a socket on this nut, but I thought that there must have been a change in the brackets between Puma & TD5 models which made a socket possible.

    On the Defender2 UK site a few TD5 owners have referred to grinding down a normal shallow socket so that it will fit.

    I would be most interested in a socket which would fit "as is", & if you could measure its height I would be very appreciative, as I could then compare the dimensions with my 30mm socket before buying one.

    Cheers,

    Lionel

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbe View Post
    This style of impact socket was the only one that fitted. I think it also helped that is was a hex pattern which did not tend to round the edges of the nut.

    Attachment 172439Attachment 172440Attachment 172441
    Thanks jbe.

    Cheers,

    Lionel

  3. #13
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    I don't know what rear diffs are used in the Pumas (maybe Rover). As far as I know, the early Td5 110s came out with Salisbury rear diffs and the later ones with P38 rear diffs and Rover front diffs (the 90s have Rover rear diffs AFAIK).
    The diff centers in Rover diffs are called long neck and the ones in P38 diffs are called short necks. So, if your diff center in the rear has a significantly shorter neck than the one in your front diff of your Td5 110, you have a P38 rear diff (same as me).
    This would mean the socket, I posted will work.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbe View Post
    I don't know what rear diffs are used in the Pumas (maybe Rover). As far as I know, the early Td5 110s came out with Salisbury rear diffs and the later ones with P38 rear diffs and Rover front diffs (the 90s have Rover rear diffs AFAIK).
    The diff centers in Rover diffs are called long neck and the ones in P38 diffs are called short necks. So, if your diff center in the rear has a significantly shorter neck than the one in your front diff of your Td5 110, you have a P38 rear diff (same as me).
    This would mean the socket, I posted will work.
    Thanks very much for the useful information. I'll have a look & see exactly what rear diff I have. Pity it's not a Salisbury - getting a socket on there is a doddle!

    I have a local branch of Sydney Tools who seem to stock the Daytona impacts. I'll try & measure one after the lockdown ends (!!).

    Cheers,

    Lionel

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbe View Post
    I don't know what rear diffs are used in the Pumas (maybe Rover). As far as I know, the early Td5 110s came out with Salisbury rear diffs and the later ones with P38 rear diffs and Rover front diffs (the 90s have Rover rear diffs AFAIK).
    The diff centers in Rover diffs are called long neck and the ones in P38 diffs are called short necks. So, if your diff center in the rear has a significantly shorter neck than the one in your front diff of your Td5 110, you have a P38 rear diff (same as me).
    This would mean the socket, I posted will work.
    The rear diff centre is about 160mm (flange to diff casing joint), & the front is about 200mm, so rear is a P38 diff.

    Of course, the other complication I have is that the lower bracket holding the ball joint to the diff is welded to the diff casing, not bolted as in earlier models. This means I have to be able to undo the nut on the car (!!). Maybe it is similar on the Puma.

    Cheers,

    Lionel

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lionel View Post
    The rear diff centre is about 160mm (flange to diff casing joint), & the front is about 200mm, so rear is a P38 diff.

    Of course, the other complication I have is that the lower bracket holding the ball joint to the diff is welded to the diff casing, not bolted as in earlier models. This means I have to be able to undo the nut on the car (!!). Maybe it is similar on the Puma.

    Cheers,

    Lionel
    Yes, you should be able to unbolt the nut on the car with the socket, I posted pictures of earlier. I think, I bought it at Sydney Tools.
    I found a couple of pictures in my photo album which help identify the type of diff and show the welded on cast bracket.
    The picture from underneath the car is my Defender to identify the diff model, the other one was from a Facebook post. I think that brackets on the Puma are a little shallower than on the Td5 P38 diff.



    160015836_2813627905550581_2976331811606626406_n.jpg159900815_10157945675993461_4708011086401016192_n.jpg

  7. #17
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    I have a 30mm ring spanner and a KINCROME K2414 (3/4 drive 6 sided impact socket - 54mm deep) or a K2882 (1/2 drive 12 sided socket - 43mm deep) here in Moe is you want a loan Lionel. PM me.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbe View Post
    Yes, you should be able to unbolt the nut on the car with the socket, I posted pictures of earlier. I think, I bought it at Sydney Tools.
    I found a couple of pictures in my photo album which help identify the type of diff and show the welded on cast bracket.
    The picture from underneath the car is my Defender to identify the diff model, the other one was from a Facebook post. I think that brackets on the Puma are a little shallower than on the Td5 P38 diff.



    160015836_2813627905550581_2976331811606626406_n.jpg159900815_10157945675993461_4708011086401016192_n.jpg
    Thanks again. A member of the Defender2 site (UK) mentioned being able to undo his 30mm nut with a suitable socket, but not tighten up the replacement. This seemed odd to me & I have questioned him about it. His vehicle is a 90, but seems to have a similar setup.

    Did you have any difficulty tightening up your new one?

    Cheers,

    Lionel
    Last edited by Lionel; 24th July 2021 at 05:25 PM. Reason: spelling error

  9. #19
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    A frame castellated nut - size?

    Quote Originally Posted by Lionel View Post
    Thanks again. A member of the Defender2 site (UK) mentioned being able to undo his 30mm nut with a suitable socket, but not tighten up the replacement. This seemed odd to me & I have questioned him about it. His vehicle is a 90, but seems to have a similar setup.

    Did you have any difficulty tightening up your new one?

    Cheers,

    Lionel
    I had no issues with tightening. I used a 30cm socket extension and a torque ratchet.
    I put the socket over the nut first and then put the extension into the socket.
    I used to do it with a 32mm socket before which was easier to get on and off, but this messed up the edges of the castellated nut.

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