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Thread: A frame castellated nut - size?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Garfield, Victoria
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    496

    A frame castellated nut - size?

    Hi,

    I'll soon need to replace the A frame ball joint on my Defender 2004 TD5 Xtreme.

    I want to replace the unit complete (with housing), but would like to undo the castellated nut & try to break the taper with the old unit in place before removing it.

    Does anyone know the exact size of the spanner needed. There is only room for a ring spanner, unfortunately, & I'll have to buy one.

    It is 28-30mm approx. (1 1/8 AF maybe?).

    Any information would be appreciated.

    Cheers,

    Lionel

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    East Kurrajong, NSW
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    Hi Lionel

    I have forgotten the size but you can get a socket on and with a universal joint you can wiz it off in seconds with an impact drill/wrench.

    I replaced my A ball joint with one with a grease nipple. It’s a little hard to get at to service but you can. Supposed to extended the service life of the unit… seems ok so far but is relatively new.

    Cheers Simon
    Cheers
    Travelrover

    Adventure before Dementia

    2012 Puma 90 - Black
    1999 Td5 110 Ute - White
    1996 Tdi 300 Wagon - White (the project)
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  3. #3
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    Jan 2011
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    Caroline Springs, Vic.
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    337
    30mm

    Just recently changed mine, same as Simon said....socket and impact wrench.... I have a Long Ranger fuel tank, which restricted access. Just put rear of chassis on axle stands, removed rear wheels, and lowered axle with jack. The only issue I had was getting the torque wrench on the nut to re tension at the end.
    _________________________________
    Ian.

    "Busby" 2010 Defender Puma 110,
    "ozy013" 1996 Defender 130 crew cab,(gone).
    "Pudd'in" 1973 88" Series III hard top, (gone, stolen)

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozy013 View Post
    30mm

    Just recently changed mine, same as Simon said....socket and impact wrench.... I have a Long Ranger fuel tank, which restricted access. Just put rear of chassis on axle stands, removed rear wheels, and lowered axle with jack. The only issue I had was getting the torque wrench on the nut to re tension at the end.
    I gave up trying to get the torque wrench on, just used a bar and a length of gal pipe and was sliding around on the ground getting it as tight as possible and putting the pin in! No idea what torque it is..
    Cheers
    Travelrover

    Adventure before Dementia

    2012 Puma 90 - Black
    1999 Td5 110 Ute - White
    1996 Tdi 300 Wagon - White (the project)
    1977 Series III 88" Petrol (the other project)

    VKS-737 - Mobile 0972

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by travelrover View Post
    Hi Lionel

    I have forgotten the size but you can get a socket on and with a universal joint you can wiz it off in seconds with an impact drill/wrench.

    I replaced my A ball joint with one with a grease nipple. It’s a little hard to get at to service but you can. Supposed to extended the service life of the unit… seems ok so far but is relatively new.

    Cheers Simon
    On my vehicle it is NOT possible to remove the castellated nut with a socket - there's not enough space. Apparently with a Salisbury diff there is room to use a socket, but not with the Rover diff fitted to later TD5s.

    Hence the ring spanner.

    Cheers,

    Lionel

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    East Kurrajong, NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lionel View Post
    On my vehicle it is NOT possible to remove the castellated nut with a socket - there's not enough space. Apparently with a Salisbury diff there is room to use a socket, but not with the Rover diff fitted to later TD5s.

    Hence the ring spanner.

    Cheers,

    Lionel
    Hmmm, that really does throw a spanner in the works…. ;-)
    Cheers
    Travelrover

    Adventure before Dementia

    2012 Puma 90 - Black
    1999 Td5 110 Ute - White
    1996 Tdi 300 Wagon - White (the project)
    1977 Series III 88" Petrol (the other project)

    VKS-737 - Mobile 0972

  7. #7
    jbe's Avatar
    jbe is offline Master Silver Subscriber
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    Nov 2015
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    Woollahra
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    Most ball joints seem to be 30mm spanner size (Maxidrive are 28mm from memory), I have a 2005 Td5 with a P38 rear diff and I had to shop for a socket that I could get on for quite a while. It is certainly a tight squeeze.I'll have a look later today what socket I used.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Essendon
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    I couldn't for the life of me get the nut off the sals diff in my 2002 (also with long range tank), resorted to using a dremil and chisel which ended up costing me a new brake pipe aswell. If i have to do it again I would just unbolt from the top of the diff and do it all in a vice (not sure if you can do this with other diff types though?)

  9. #9
    jbe's Avatar
    jbe is offline Master Silver Subscriber
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    This style of impact socket was the only one that fitted. I think it also helped that is was a hex pattern which did not tend to round the edges of the nut.

    IMG_6246.jpgIMG_6247.jpgIMG_6248.jpg

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Caroline Springs, Vic.
    Posts
    337
    Quote Originally Posted by Lionel View Post
    On my vehicle it is NOT possible to remove the castellated nut with a socket - there's not enough space. Apparently with a Salisbury diff there is room to use a socket, but not with the Rover diff fitted to later TD5s.

    Hence the ring spanner.

    Cheers,

    Lionel
    Mine is a 2010 Puma with the same Rover diff fitted as the TD5. There is just enough space if you buy the right socket...I will try and get a pic of the socket I used tomorrow.
    _________________________________
    Ian.

    "Busby" 2010 Defender Puma 110,
    "ozy013" 1996 Defender 130 crew cab,(gone).
    "Pudd'in" 1973 88" Series III hard top, (gone, stolen)

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