i run the air bag man full kit (+2") and modified rear bellows. i set mine up with height sensors. i didn't get the horizon level feature. its more for motorhomes that need to level off. And its $400 extra. i found if you leave the car ignition on (even if kill engine) for the prescribed 40 sec, it will level out at the preset height. the height sensors are time delayed to 40 sec and will adjust the height if the height at a sensor remains out of range for longer than 40 sec. they also have a speed setting. i set mine up to change from car park/entry height to normal ride height at 20kph and change from off road height (+2") to normal ride height at 60 kph. The default settings are too low a speed and it's not practical in off road situations to have the bags air down at the 15 or 20 kph in the default setting. ABM will, if you ask nicely, give you the software and access code to the ECU to reprogram it.
While the bellows are great, you will need to run sway bars front and rear and possibly a firmer rear bar to control the body roll. You will likely have to revalve your shocks too. I run dobinson 3 way 60mm bore remote res shocks and the firmest factory setting should be the softest setting. Bellows require a firmer rebound valving than a coil and the standard shock set up is inadequate. I need to take my shocks into Dobinson to revalve. FYI i asked ARB if they would revalve their shocks for me (before buying Dobinsons) and was told no they won't. ARB are good but they are not flexible in their thinking outside of the box.
If you are running factory length front shocks the ABM kit is fit and forget. If you are running longer shocks, depending on the closed length you might need to add a spacer to the turret to raise the shock upper mount. I fitted 12mm spacer ring to avoid the shock bottoming out before the bump stop. OEM shocks have a shorter closed length which avoids bottoming out. the ABM kit requires a +1" bump stop extension too. My rear bellows are a 14T1C-7 piston fitted to a 14T1C-8 bellow. I get 550mm travel from that set up. For off road using a 10" shock the 14T1C-7 bellow and piston is all you need. Its 19" v 20.5" full extension on the bellow.
is it worth it? i have to say yes because there is a substantial amount of money invested. I had flexi long travel coils before air and it was a cushy ride and i had the lift to hit wash outs at 100kph and not bottom out. no chance of that with air.
another thing to consider with bellows is the rate. for example a 130 factory dual coil is 425lbs/in. the bellow i run at factory ride height is 245lbs/in. that explains the tinny in a storm handling. there is not enough rate to counter act the weight of the vehicle. Thus the reliance on shocks and sway bars. on the other hand it soaks up imperfections in the road because the axle can move so freely under the car. same off road, in particular drainage culverts. the axle can move with little rate resistance from the bellow. side slopes are interesting when the bellow compresses under the weight of the vehicle on the low side. The bellow can carry more weight than a coil and your fore to aft will always sit flat not matter the weight. i put a bobcat on a trailer on the tow ball. as the steering arm was wound down the bellows compressed and then the system kicked in to level off again.
Long and sort, air bellows are a very different experience to coils and if you are looking for improved handling you will be disappointed. If you have ever seen the early RRCs take a corner, that's what it looks like both from the drivers seat and from the third party observer. i've had my bonnet at 35* taking a round about too quick.
i considered bigger brakes. decided its not worth the money. the kit is **** expensive and you have to upsize to 18" rims and rubber. If you run the larger callipers you should use a larger master cylinder. larger callipers need more fluid to achieve the same level of brake pressure. or your foot will sink to the floor to get the brake pressure at the calliper. more fluid = larger master cylinder. larger master cylinder = more vacuum assist required. Puma is 3.4". 1 tonne S3 used 1". GM truck is 1-1/8th MC. i'm going to run GM truck hydroboost, GM truck MC and the GM truck power steering pump. hydroboost is 1450psi of pressure on the MC rod with the larger MC = significantly improved braking for less than $1,000. Just offering a different way to think about your braking problem. if i ever upgrade to larger callipers, the foundation in the system is there to take advantage of the larger calliper.
cheers, MLD
MLD
Current: (Diggy) MY10 D130 ute, locked F&R, air suspension and rolling on 35's.
Current: (but in need of TLC) 200tdi 110 ute & a 300tdi 110 ute.
Current: (Steed) MY11 Audi RS5 phantom black (the daily driver)
Gone: (Dorothy) MY99 TD5 D110
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